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Mike G

Mike G

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Don't feel bad at all....that's how I ended up enabling BlueCruise on my 2021 Mach-E back in March of '22.

The original leaders in getting BlueCruise to function was the F-150 forum guys. Months before the Mach-E forum. I had both a '21 F-150 Powerboost and a '21 Mach-E and I was getting nowhere with my dealer service enabling a feature I had paid for on both. So like others I bought the Mongoose and a FDRS subscription and a little PL2320 and got to work...on the truck first. This is before the TSB to enable BC was even out.

Well that actually worked (using the PL2320) due to the giant 12V battery in the Powerboost....So I was very pleased after updating all modules that I got the notification in FP that BC was now active.

And then I moved over to the Mach-E.....well everything was going fine...since you have to do a lot of shorter updates before you get to the IPMA......I mean, the CMR did cause me some concern when I saw the voltage dip down to 10.1V.

But then I started on the IPMA...and very quickly realized that I was in trouble. So I pulled the Powerboost alongside and ran an additional set of jumpers piggyback from the truck to the leads from the PL2320 connected to the jump points, and then had to keep making sure the ICE engine on the Powerboost (Stop/Start) kept running until the programming ended (like 3 hours later).

I immediately went in and ordered a PL6100 from Ebay and haven't looked back.

But you aren't the only one who's learned this lesson the hard way, believe me. :)
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Vulnox

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Don't feel bad at all....that's how I ended up enabling BlueCruise on my 2021 Mach-E back in March of '22.

The original leaders in getting BlueCruise to function was the F-150 forum guys. Months before the Mach-E forum. I had both a '21 F-150 Powerboost and a '21 Mach-E and I was getting nowhere with my dealer service enabling a feature I had paid for on both. So like others I bought the Mongoose and a FDRS subscription and a little PL2320 and got to work...on the truck first. This is before the TSB to enable BC was even out.

Well that actually worked (using the PL2320) due to the giant 12V battery in the Powerboost....So I was very pleased after updating all modules that I got the notification in FP that BC was now active.

And then I moved over to the Mach-E.....well everything was going fine...since you have to do a lot of shorter updates before you get to the IPMA......I mean, the CMR did cause me some concern when I saw the voltage dip down to 10.1V.

But then I started on the IPMA...and very quickly realized that I was in trouble. So I pulled the Powerboost alongside and ran an additional set of jumpers piggyback from the truck to the leads from the PL2320 connected to the jump points, and then had to keep making sure the ICE engine on the Powerboost (Stop/Start) kept running until the programming ended (like 3 hours later).

I immediately went in and ordered a PL6100 from Ebay and haven't looked back.

But you aren't the only one who's learned this lesson the hard way, believe me. :)
Appreciate you taking the time to outline the importance of the correct parts. I have been considering just throwing in the towel and getting a Mongoose for a while. I also had a 2021 PowerBoost (but 2022 Mach-e) and for both waited for BlueCruise to fully release. I ended up just waiting for the OTA update, but annoyingly my lease was over half done by the time I got BC on the PowerBoost despite having the up front 3 year BC sub.

I should have just gone in back then.

I have been trying to research what charger I would need recently and the 6100 isn't cheap, but between you and a few others I have seen mention that they saw 30+ amp draw during the module updates, it seems like the right way to go.
 

PJnc284

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Appreciate you taking the time to outline the importance of the correct parts. I have been considering just throwing in the towel and getting a Mongoose for a while. I also had a 2021 PowerBoost (but 2022 Mach-e) and for both waited for BlueCruise to fully release. I ended up just waiting for the OTA update, but annoyingly my lease was over half done by the time I got BC on the PowerBoost despite having the up front 3 year BC sub.

I should have just gone in back then.

I have been trying to research what charger I would need recently and the 6100 isn't cheap, but between you and a few others I have seen mention that they saw 30+ amp draw during the module updates, it seems like the right way to go.
60+ in some instances so I would look for 75 or above. I have a Powermax pmbc-75 that has gotten me through several marathon (6hr+) sessions. It's a bit cheaper at ~$300 but can be had lowerif you have a spare set of good cables to donate. Should also be noted that the pl6100 requires a 20 amp plug so you'll need to be wired appropriately or a 20-15 amp adapter since it won't come close to pulling enough to trip a 15 amp breaker.
 

Vulnox

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60+ in some instances so I would look for 75 or above. I have a Powermax pmbc-75 that has gotten me through several marathon (6hr+) sessions. It's a bit cheaper at ~$300 but can be had lowerif you have a spare set of good cables to donate. Should also be noted that the pl6100 requires a 20 amp plug so you'll need to be wired appropriately or a 20-15 amp adapter since it won't come close to pulling enough to trip a 15 amp breaker.
Good to know! Definitely better on price. Do you run into issues like one reviewer noted?
"Product is great. Those who are having issues maintaining adequate voltage while programming need to turn on consumers in the vehicle to keep the charger in charge mode or it will reduce output when it senses a charged battery and low load on the battery."

They largely provide a solution as well on turning something on, guessing you could run headlights or something. Just wondering what you or others do on that end.
 

sstevetx

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PJnc284

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Good to know! Definitely better on price. Do you run into issues like one reviewer noted?
"Product is great. Those who are having issues maintaining adequate voltage while programming need to turn on consumers in the vehicle to keep the charger in charge mode or it will reduce output when it senses a charged battery and low load on the battery."

They largely provide a solution as well on turning something on, guessing you could run headlights or something. Just wondering what you or others do on that end.
No idea what they're talking about. I just set it to 14.1v and go.
 

bmwhitetx

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Good to know! Definitely better on price. Do you run into issues like one reviewer noted?
"Product is great. Those who are having issues maintaining adequate voltage while programming need to turn on consumers in the vehicle to keep the charger in charge mode or it will reduce output when it senses a charged battery and low load on the battery."

They largely provide a solution as well on turning something on, guessing you could run headlights or something. Just wondering what you or others do on that end.
That reviewer has poor English or poor knowledge of the unit. The Clore 6100 (as well as the 2320 which I have), can operate as both a battery charger and a power supply. You want to put it in Power Supply mode. See page 9 of the manual.
 

Vulnox

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That reviewer has poor English or poor knowledge of the unit. The Clore 6100 (as well as the 2320 which I have), can operate as both a battery charger and a power supply. You want to put it in Power Supply mode. See page 9 of the manual.
That makes a lot of sense. I thought it was odd that he seemed to be one of the only ones mentioning the issue, and that explains it.

Thanks all for the extra guidance!
 

rugedraw

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I have been trying to research what charger I would need recently and the 6100 isn't cheap, but between you and a few others I have seen mention that they saw 30+ amp draw during the module updates, it seems like the right way to go.
This one is tried and true by several members here and on the Mach E forum. @RiqRod just updated his last week with one of these and one of my Mongooses including the 3 hour long IPMA update. All you need are some jumper cables to cut and strip the ends off of one side to put into the terminals and you're good to go. It's not as pretty as the Clore and you can't use it as a charger; it's a power supply only, but it'll more than get the job done at a fraction of the cost.

https://www.amazon.com/RV-Converter...21-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1
 

02Reaper

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This one is tried and true by several members here and on the Mach E forum. @RiqRod just updated his last week with one of these and one of my Mongooses including the 3 hour long IPMA update. All you need are some jumper cables to cut and strip the ends off of one side to put into the terminals and you're good to go. It's not as pretty as the Clore and you can't use it as a charger; it's a power supply only, but it'll more than get the job done at a fraction of the cost.

https://www.amazon.com/RV-Converter-Compatible-Converters-Operating/dp/B0DS7XZ5MD/ref=sr_1_21_sspa?crid=2G4MSSXPLM220&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2pzGSdH_DnBKgu5SfyZbEub1lTSW8BLABOAcOotCzK2JEMuvVTxR3ZSCvWo9DLldy9hz4QRP8gIZQvEP7Xhl81JsExDHI8_ceGZBL303ob1RIpnLDshx3jyT4ilAXbeMOkyNmTowdIEZf0k4aJG8FTxRUN-Ud-WdGyUGg4OMt6lvsXhM14RNxwfuYymFq9XYKSZSSSV4yuExnDAfGs_dO6pSgbOBeD_cWqxzw_JiLVE.KKs7kGrOQlFWhZzFO-Y6VdfQ7oMdbPvRvcmeRTIoDv8&dib_tag=se&keywords=40amp+power+supply&qid=1751405754&sprefix=40amp+power+supply,aps,107&sr=8-21-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1
I used this one on a 6 hour update about a week ago and it worked flawlessly.
 

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rugedraw

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RLXXI

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Been doing some reading since I picked up this 25 Flash last month,.... time to knock the dust off my vcm2. :cool:
 

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Once you go to the dark side, it's hard to go back. :devilish: Be sure you have a good power supply since the Lightning's battery is small and you can kill it easily with the longer updates. Which can't imagine there's anything major out there for the 25 currently.
 

RLXXI

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Once you go to the dark side, it's hard to go back. :devilish: Be sure you have a good power supply since the Lightning's battery is small and you can kill it easily with the longer updates. Which can't imagine there's anything major out there for the 25 currently.
Familiar with most of the systems, it's been a while since I was over on PTS, little over 21 years ago lol. But yeah, whenever a vehicle hit my stall, first thing I always do, update everything. There's enough newness with this system it's worth it to me just to walk the old path again.

Should be very interesting, I just hope the old hdwr still works. EDIT: hdwr still works, but damn they went up on cost. I have to use IDS rather than FDRS and last time I bought a license it was $50 for 3 days. Now it's $150 for 2 days, greedy sob's. As they say, it is what it is. pfft
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