Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder

[Sleazy-E]

So I forgot to circle back to this. I did clean the model up a bit, pushed the rear wall of the bin back a bit for a little more room under the mount. I put a couple up on my shop that will include the 17mm ball mount. https://polymerbuilt.etsy.com

I have an AMPS to Dual-T and a Dual-T to 17mm ball on the way from Arkon mounts that should be here tomorrow. This was my idea for quick removal if someone still wanted to use the work surface.
Horizontal Dual T-Tab to 4-Hole Narrow AMPS Adapter — Arkon Mounts
Dual T-Slot to 17mm Ball Adapter for Garmin GPS — Arkon Mounts

Will probably end up offering 3D printed versions of the Dual-T hardware once I can get some measurements off these.

I just ordered your ball mount version on Shopify. Did the Akron adapter and mount work end up working with your model?

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[PolymerBuilt]

I just ordered your ball mount version on Shopify. Did the Akron adapter and mount work end up working with your model?

Hey, thanks for the order!

I ran into an issue with the Arkon items that I posted. The Dual T-Tab plate screws in fine, but it seems to be designed for M4 or #10 screws. Wasn't clear on the website and doesn't seem to be a consensus between vendors on what everyone uses.

The counterbore won't fit the M5 screw head. so it interferes with the 17mm ball adapter sliding in.

If you have access to a belt sander or grinding wheel you can shave down the diameter of the M5 head to just under 8mm and it'll work just fine.

 

[Sleazy-E]

Hey, thanks for the order!

I ran into an issue with the Arkon items that I posted. The Dual T-Tab plate screws in fine, but it seems to be designed for M4 or #10 screws. Wasn't clear on the website and doesn't seem to be a consensus between vendors on what everyone uses.

The counterbore won't fit the M5 screw head. so it interferes with the 17mm ball adapter sliding in.

If you have access to a belt sander or grinding wheel you can shave down the diameter of the M5 head to just under 8mm and it'll work just fine.

Ah, dang. Well, you've got another order from me if you end up making something similar!

 

[PolymerBuilt]

Ah, dang. Well, you've got another order from me if you end up making something similar!

Was there something specific you wanted to see? I've got to burn through some pieces I made ahead of time, but I could keep it in mind for a new design.

 

[Sleazy-E]

Was there something specific you wanted to see? I've got to burn through some pieces I made ahead of time, but I could keep it in mind for a new design.

Sorry, I was referring to your earlier post about making your own version of the Dual-T base since the Akron didn’t fit perfectly.

Although, now that I’m thinking about it. Maybe a small USB-C cable sized hole in front of the rotary dial on the cubby wall to easily run power from the console port would be pretty nice in order to keep the cable concealed.

 

[PolymerBuilt]

Sorry, I was referring to your earlier post about making your own version of the Dual-T base since the Akron didn’t fit perfectly.

Although, now that I’m thinking about it. Maybe a small USB-C cable sized hole in front of the rotary dial on the cubby wall to easily run power from the console port would be pretty nice in order to keep the cable concealed.

Ah, got it! I was ultimately hoping to let people buy off the shelf stuff so I wouldn't need to add another part to make, but until I make a version with M4s I don't think that's happening.

Give me a few days to dial it in, I'll mail you an AMPS to Dual T plate that fits. I have something close, just need to tweak the friction fit a little more.

 

[WXman]

How much $$$ am I looking at for a setup like this? I am very interested.

 

[PolymerBuilt]

How much $$$ am I looking at for a setup like this? I am very interested.

You'll be in it for anywhere from $100 to $250 for the rotary shifter itself depending on where you get it and used vs new. eBay can be hit or miss, some buy directly from dealers.

List of compatible part numbers you can search:
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/rotary-shifter-part-numbers.29588/

Then factor in $40 to $50 for the mount through me or any of the other vendors out there. If you have access to a 3D printer there are a couple models out there you can print yourself

That's it.

 

[WXman]

You'll be in it for anywhere from $100 to $250 for the rotary shifter itself depending on where you get it and used vs new. eBay can be hit or miss, some buy directly from dealers.

List of compatible part numbers you can search:
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/rotary-shifter-part-numbers.29588/

Then factor in $40 to $50 for the mount through me or any of the other vendors out there. If you have access to a 3D printer there are a couple models out there you can print yourself

That's it.

Thanks. I'm going to look through that list because ideally I would prefer a shift knob with a blue accent and a detent that won't let it go past "D" for muscle memory.

 

[digitaldad]

Thanks. I'm going to look through that list because ideally I would prefer a shift knob with a blue accent and a detent that won't let it go past "D" for muscle memory.

You'll be wanting the "motorized" versions on that list.

 

[F150Redux]

I finally received the rotary shifter I ordered from Levitttown Ford on September 8th at about 4:00pm today. I've had my ManionMakes "2021-2025 Integrated Cupholder - F150 **Lightning** Stick to Rotary Shift Conversion Mount / Cubby (Drop-In Replacement)" in ABS for a couple weeks now.

Rotary Shifter -> LX6Z-7P155-U, motorized, blue led ring on bottom, "L" button.

I had ordered a rotary shifter from eBay, but the seller advertises one thing and ships another. So, I returned it. I looked for another, but I really didn't want to deal with that again. I decided to spend a little more and get an actual Ford part from a Ford dealer.

I was going to wait an install it tomorrow, but I decided to try and get it done before my wife got home from work. It only took a little over 30 minutes; 5+ of that was trying to figure out how to get the keyfob sensor cable disconnected. Turned out that I didn't even need to disconnect it. lol.

Removing the top trim of the console without breaking the tabs closest to the dashboard was the second trickiest part. If you look with a flashlight, it's actually pretty easy. Use one hand to push down the plastic that holds the console trim "leg" (next to the trim clip) and then use the other hand to push up on the console trim just above the "leg". There's just enough room to get it to separate.

This new ManionMakes "cupholder" version doesn't use either of the "front" (closest to the dashboard) screws, so I left the one on the left in its hole, screwed all the way down; the other one I will put in a baggie with the screw cover and rubber insert and tape it to the original unit when I store it.

Instead of the front screw hole there is a stand-off built into the conversion mount. I've suggested that they add an indent/hole in this standoff so that you can install the screw in its hole and just have the new unit sit on top of it.

Buttoning everything up took less than 5 minutes.

Note 1: I did NOT disconnect my 12V battery, just made sure the truck was off before unplugging the old and plugging in the new.

Note 2: I started with the shifter in the up position. I took out the screw in that area, started the truck, and retracted the shifter. Thanks to whoever suggested that in another post! Easier storage!

I did have an "oh crap!" moment. I successfully backed the truck out of the garage with the new shifter. I was sitting in the driveway testing the motorized rotary shifter, testing it shifting into Park automatically when stepping on the brake and opening the door, etc. Somehow, without thinking, I shut the truck off, but had it in accessory mode with SiriusXM playing. I tried to shift to Drive to go take a couple laps around our cul-de-sac but it wouldn't move. MY HEART SANK. What did I screw up?!?!? Took me a minute to realize the truck wasn't actually on. lol. Sometimes I'm so stupid.

Took my wife out to dinner and the shifter worked perfectly.

Rotary shifter in 3D printed enclosure:

In this picture you can see the "standoff" on the lower left:

Part number:

Everything installed:

Can just see the blue led ring:

Original shifter unit:

 

[hturnerfamily]

mine has worked perfectly, as well...

note:

yesterday, I turned on the truck, and turned on the rear bed 240v Outlet, with my EVSE plugged in, to test charging another EV... I changed my adjustable EVSE down to 24 amps, to get the most amperage, without tripping the truck's circuit, while pulling the most power to the other EV...

I stepped back into the truck, and went to turn the DIAL into Reverse, backing out of the garage:

IT WOULDN'T GO INTO GEAR - the Dial would NOT turn or move.

Then, after a quick second, I realized what was happening, and then noticed the ALERT message on the driver screen "Something is plugged into your ProPower Outlet"... "Please Confirm"...

so, I pressed the 'OK' button - which then allowed the DIAL to turn to REVERSE.



btw, I didn't need to make use of the EVSE in the bed, although it was a close one: my wife was returning from a far-away meeting across the state, in her EV9, and was getting very 'close' on expected RANGE to return home. I drove over about 10 miles to meet her as she dropped off a coworker on the way back, then realized that she had '13 miles' range, supposedly, at least by what the car was stating.
we drove home, 10 miles, at about 25-30mph, thru town, and out to the house, with one last 'hill' just at the end... turtle mode kicked on at about 300 yards from the driveway, but making it successfully home without having to stop... : )

 

[Busted]

I love hearing about these kind of "Oh Crap" moments. Makes me feel like maybe I don't have dementia. At least not as bad I think.

 

[derelict]

Well, it needs a little tweaking, but I have a concept. Also have an idea for those that still want to be able to use the work surface...

I bought this low profile 17mm AMPS ball on ebay, going to try it with @PolymerBuilt 's design. This is the best design I have found by far and I love the way the PETG-GF looks compared to the other 3D prints I have seen.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266659376224

 

[PolymerBuilt]

I bought this low profile 17mm AMPS ball on ebay, going to try it with @PolymerBuilt 's design. This is the best design I have found by far and I love the way the PETG-GF looks compared to the other 3D prints I have seen.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266659376224

Heck yeah, glad you like it. Post pics when you get it installed!

Curious to see how that low profile mount works. Wondering if I need to switch to M4 screws for wider compatibility. Some of the Arkon stuff I tried seemed to be designed for M4 or #8 screws. Doesn't seem to be consistency across the industry other than the 30x38mm bolt pattern.

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