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What is the Trick? To leaving the Pro Power ON?

Kansan

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Just makes no sense to me, unless holding the contactors to the HVB closed requires 12v battery power? Then I could see you'd run the risk of depleting your 12v battery if PPOB were on for too long with the truck off.

Of course, Ford could alleviate that issue by turning on the DC-DC converter to keep the 12v battery topped off while the HVB contactors are closed, eh?
I think I’m following what you’re saying here and want to offer what I’ve seen on my 24 Flash. With the truck off, PPOB On, work around in place - repeat cycle time with small heater on the floor of the back seat - the DC-DC converter is active continuously and holding the 12v system around 14v (and applying a charge to the 12v battery).
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Firn

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I'm still astounded folks think the truck is actually "off" when ppob is engaged and you hit the key.

I'll bet that every module that is alive when the truck is on, is alive when the truck is "off" with ppob on.

I would have to look. Not all that much.
Primary reason I have used it so far is when camping and using PPO to power my CPAP. I just put the heater on the tailgate pointed out. I can hear the relay in the timer click every cycle if I'm sleeping in the truck bed. If I set up the tent I can't hear it.
I think what he is saying is that its still more than just turning the truck "on" and not buying anything. Sure, the dash is on, but that's about it.

This is a very basic ask that Ford needs to address. We need a camp mode and dog mode as well. When I am camping in the winter time, I want my outlets to stay on all night so I can turn my electric blanket on and off as needed. Also need my devices to charge until full overnight.
Just leave the truck on. There is going to be no practical difference.
 

chl

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I think I’m following what you’re saying here and want to offer what I’ve seen on my 24 Flash. With the truck off, PPOB On, work around in place - repeat cycle time with small heater on the floor of the back seat - the DC-DC converter is active continuously and holding the 12v system around 14v (and applying a charge to the 12v battery).
Interesting..so keeping the 12v battery from discharging isn't the reason for the threshold, at least in your Flash.
 

vvgogh

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Someone with the "Pro Power on while truck off" option should do a test. Charge to 90% before each case. Test for at least 24h to get enough significant figures on the battery discharge. Ideally test for long enough to get 10% HVB discharge. Keep vehicle in garage. Turn HVAC off, headlights off, put screen on calm (push dial in and turn). The heater on timer method seems to be 1s on, 300s off to defeat the 6 min timeout.

Case 1) Truck ON, Power Power OFF
This is the baseline power draw of the truck's systems
Case 2) Truck ON, Pro Power ON - either no load or the heater on a timer
2-1 is the power of keeping the inverter's active
Case 3) Truck OFF, Pro power ON with "Keep pro power on while truck off" with the heater on a timer
3-2 is the power saving benefit of this feature
I don't have this "keep pro power on while truck off" feature on my '23.
 

AMG

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Seriously, good luck getting Ford to fix/change this.

The fact that you can only set climate pre-heat/pre-cool for a short duration before it turns off and you must be at the truck to turn it on/off to re-activate is stupid.
The fact that you start the pre-climate and if you walk up and open the front trunk, it turns off the climate, just shows how much Ford cares.
The fact that the falling out of Sport Mode issue was pushed out over 4 months ago with Ford acknowledging they broke it, but still cannot fix what they broke shows where priorities lie with a discontinued vehicle.

I could go on and on....
The truck is great at many things. I love driving it.
But from a technology perspective, it's crazy to think it took Ford till 2025 to disassemble a Tesla and suddenly realize they are still stuck in the 20th century with how they opeate.
 

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chl

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K6CCC

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I'll bet that every module that is alive when the truck is on, is alive when the truck is "off" with ppob on.
Off hand, that would surprise me.

Should be moderately easy to check. CarScanner and an OBD2 reader should be able to measure power consumption. Only problem with that is that just having the OBD2 reader plugged in does result in more stuff powered on.
 

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I'll bet that every module that is alive when the truck is on, is alive when the truck is "off" with ppob on.
I put it through a day long (about 10 hours) test last weekend during the big storm that blew through the Midwest. PPOB was on and powering my entire house. Truck off. I had my OBD2 scanner connected. I was able to connect and read most parameters the entire time, but it would not read/show any of the "displayed" parameters such as SOC Displayed. It also would not read/show pack voltage, Battery Max Allowable Temp, or Battery Variation in Voltage Measurement. The SOC Displayed was basically stuck at the value it read when I turned the ignition off. The next day when I drove the truck to work, it started at the previously, and incorrectly high, SOC Displayed. Over the first couple miles SOC Displayed adjusted gradually to a stable reading in line with (and appropriately higher than) the HvbSoc "actual."

During the test I really only checked one other item. I was hoping for the Wifi to remain energized during PPOB on while the truck is off. I'm paying $10 a month to have the 4G wifi hotspot to be active in my truck. With Truck Off, PPOB On, Wifi was deenergized.
 

Kansan

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Interesting..so keeping the 12v battery from discharging isn't the reason for the threshold, at least in your Flash.
I just posted a minute ago about powering my house for 10+ hours last weekend during the big storm. For all but the first 20 minutes I had PPOB On, Truck Off. At the end of the test, before shutting down, the low voltage system was floating at 13.9v, it showed my 12V battery at 100% SOC, and 12v battery current at 0.0A. So, during the test it had fully topped off my 12v battery and all 12v power was coming from the DC-DC converter.

I usually stretch out my charging sessions to last 6 hours, to match my super-off-peak rate period. I have a bluetooth monitor on my 12V that logs voltage at the 12v battery. During my charging sessions I regularly see 14v during the first hour or two (I assume this is to support a higher charge rate of the 12v battery) followed by 13.5v until the end of the charging session. At the end of the 6 hour charging sessions the 12v battery always shows 12.98v.

When I started my test last weekend, with PPOB On and the Truck On the 12v system was at 13.5v (the low rate charge voltage I see during HVB charging) - I did this for about 20 minutes so I could compare what the truck was showing as watts per leg to the Fordpass app readings. When I turned the truck off the voltage jumped to 14v and stayed there for the entire 10+ hour event.
 

chl

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I just posted a minute ago about powering my house for 10+ hours last weekend during the big storm. For all but the first 20 minutes I had PPOB On, Truck Off. At the end of the test, before shutting down, the low voltage system was floating at 13.9v, it showed my 12V battery at 100% SOC, and 12v battery current at 0.0A. So, during the test it had fully topped off my 12v battery and all 12v power was coming from the DC-DC converter.

I usually stretch out my charging sessions to last 6 hours, to match my super-off-peak rate period. I have a bluetooth monitor on my 12V that logs voltage at the 12v battery. During my charging sessions I regularly see 14v during the first hour or two (I assume this is to support a higher charge rate of the 12v battery) followed by 13.5v until the end of the charging session. At the end of the 6 hour charging sessions the 12v battery always shows 12.98v.

When I started my test last weekend, with PPOB On and the Truck On the 12v system was at 13.5v (the low rate charge voltage I see during HVB charging) - I did this for about 20 minutes so I could compare what the truck was showing as watts per leg to the Fordpass app readings. When I turned the truck off the voltage jumped to 14v and stayed there for the entire 10+ hour event.
Interesting thanks.

I always wondered if the DC-DC inverter would be on keeping the 12v battery charged when the PPOB was active and the truck was off - no way to check on my 2023 that doesn't have the PPOB on when truck off feature, but now I know.

Yes, I knew the 12v battery would be getting charged during a L2 HVB charging session, that had been documented before. And the longer the charge session the better the 12v battery gets charged - may actually get topped off to 100%.

One thing I still wonder, when the truck is plugged in to the L2 EVSE, warming the HVB but not charging the HVB, is the DC-DC converter active and is it charging the 12v battery?

That now seems possible based on your results.
 

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This is my biggest complaint.. heck with coolers, etc… but clearly Ford hates dogs. They don’t care if Spot is kept toasty in the winter and cool in the summer. Very disappointed in Ford.
I see this more as Ford not wanting to deal with lawsuits and enable idiots to leave their babies in the truck while they spend all day at work or all night at the bar in hot or freezing weather.
 

djryan13

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I was thinking same thing but why can other manufacturers get away with it? Or does Ford not trust their tech?
 

Kansan

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One thing I still wonder, when the truck is plugged in to the L2 EVSE, warming the HVB but not charging the HVB, is the DC-DC converter active and is it charging the 12v battery?

That now seems possible based on your results.
I don't use departure times often, because my truck is in the garage. But I did use a departure time yesterday and the truck was plugged in and had completed charging the HVB. The voltage at the 12V battery went to 14.3V during the warm up for the departure time.
 

Firn

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Off hand, that would surprise me.

Should be moderately easy to check. CarScanner and an OBD2 reader should be able to measure power consumption. Only problem with that is that just having the OBD2 reader plugged in does result in more stuff powered on.
Well I believe folks here have shown the DC-DC converter is live. The AC inverters are cooled from the liquid cooling loop, so the pump is involved. The becm needs to be active.

Not all the individual modules may need to be fired up, but a bunch of heavy loads are for sure.
 

K6CCC

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Well I believe folks here have shown the DC-DC converter is live. The AC inverters are cooled from the liquid cooling loop, so the pump is involved. The becm needs to be active.
If we're talking about the load on the PPOB at such a low load that tricks are required to keep it running, cooling it is NOT going to be much of an issue!

I can tell you that a half hour or so ago I left my truck off with PPOB on with about a 150 watt load. It was almost 90 outside and the heat pump was NOT running.
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