ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[rugedraw]

Any have the ability to run in to see why I keep getting a code or is anyone in the Sacramento AOR.

I really don’t wanna go to a dealer or purchase the equipment to update via FDRS but I would love to buy someone lunch or buy them beers and chat while they update mine?

Message me the VIN and I can check the codes.

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[Mike G]

FDRS was updated to 42.5.8 yesterday.

Installed without issue.

 

[Mike G]

FDRS was updated to 42.5.8 yesterday.

Installed without issue.

And 12 days later, we now get 42.5.10

I installed, all went well.

 

[ytwytw]

Q: For this one
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...-now-available-for-the-f-150-lightning.22234/

Is it possible to get this update via FDRS?

planning to do a 500mi trip early Dec, and I hope I can just spend $50 on 2-day pass to get this installed.

 

[Mike G]

Q: For this one
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...-now-available-for-the-f-150-lightning.22234/

Is it possible to get this update via FDRS?

Planning to do a 500mi trip early Dec, and I hope I can just spend $50 on 2-day pass to get this installed.

Break out the USB drive because it's update time!

Do the GWM first, then, if another GWM doesn't show up, do the APIM.

That should do the trick. My '22 is on the APIM rev "-NG" which I know is Sync 1270. The application manifest for the APIM in your list says it's the same "-NG" revision you'll end up with when it's updated.

You can also do the powertrain updates while you're there. In this case with only three modules in that set it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes tops for the powertrain.

I should note that after I did the APIM update to Sync 1270 I did not immediately see the Public Charging app update. It took a little while for that to show up in the apps list...I noticed it was there the next day. So I think it's something that is dynamically updated and populated after the APIM is updated.

 

[rugedraw]

Q: For this one
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...-now-available-for-the-f-150-lightning.22234/

Is it possible to get this update via FDRS?

planning to do a 500mi trip early Dec, and I hope I can just spend $50 on 2-day pass to get this installed.

As I was typing this, a new message was posted and @Mike G beat me to it. lol

 

[ytwytw]

Break out the USB drive because it's update time!

Do the GWM first, then, if another GWM doesn't show up, do the APIM.

That should do the trick. My '22 is on the APIM rev "-NG" which I know is Sync 1270. The application manifest for the APIM in your list says it's the same "-NG" revision you'll end up with when it's updated.

You can also do the powertrain updates while you're there. In this case with only three modules in that set it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes tops for the powertrain.

Thank you mike for the quick update.
and I got a new question.
What's the requirement of the USB?
Is USB3 USB drive supported? how the USB should be formatted? exfat with MBR or GUID?

also for BCM, I assume still no way for DIY to apply update? only dealer can do it?

 

[Mike G]

Thank you mike for the quick update.
and I got a new question.
What's the requirement of the USB?
Is USB3 USB drive supported? how the USB should be formatted? exfat with MBR or GUID?

also for BCM, I assume still no way for DIY to apply update? only dealer can do it?

Recommended 32GB/64Gb USB 3.2 Gen 1 (high transfer speeds), exFat, using the "Default Allocation size" option in the Windows formatting dialog. If you're using a 'regular' thumb drive Windows will automatically create a MBR partition. You only need to worry about GPT partition changeover to MBR if you're using what Windows considers a "hard drive" like a NVMe SSD in an enclosure. Those will likely be automatically formatted as GPT and have to be converted to MBR. "Regular" USB thumb drives shouldn't have that problem, as Windows sees them as removable media and will create a MBR partition on them by default.

The BCM is still dealer tech only from what I have seen.

Make sure to reformat between uses of that USB drive. Don't update the GWM and then just overwrite the APIM files on to the same USB drive and try to update. It won't like that. So after doing the GWM, do a reformat on the USB drive before having FDRS copy the APIM files to it.

 

[Riverant]

I'm preparing to update via FDRS in the near future. I have an old battery charger that seems to charge at 12A or 30A, which I think is what I'm looking for. Can anyone confirm if this will work during FDRS updates?

Diehard-28.71325
DIEHARD 28.71325 OPERATOR'S MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib

 

[rugedraw]

I'm preparing to update via FDRS in the near future. I have an old battery charger that seems to charge at 12A or 30A, which I think is what I'm looking for. Can anyone confirm if this will work during FDRS updates?

Diehard-28.71325
DIEHARD 28.71325 OPERATOR'S MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib

That will not work for the IPMA/PSCM. You need something with power supply mode; not just a charger. It is recommended you get something with at least 40amp of juice in power supply mode for the EV's due to their small 12v battery.

 

[Riverant]

That will not work for the IPMA/PSCM. You need something with power supply mode; not just a charger. It is recommended you get something with at least 40amp of juice in power supply mode for the EV's due to their small 12v battery.

The Clore PL2320 was recommended in the 1st post of this thread and I think I saw you recommended it on the gen14 forum, but it is only a 20a power supply. Just to confirm, will this one work? Amazon.com: Clore Automotive PL2320 20-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Stable Power Supply with Temperature Compensation : Automotive

 

[rugedraw]

The Clore PL2320 was recommended in the 1st post of this thread and I think I saw you recommended it on the gen14 forum, but it is only a 20a power supply. Just to confirm, will this one work? Amazon.com: Clore Automotive PL2320 20-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Stable Power Supply with Temperature Compensation : Automotive

The Clore PL2320 is what I use and what is recommended for ICE vehicle that have a 12v battery with double or more capacity than what comes in the EV's. The 20amp may be good enough for most updates, but the CMR takes 45-60 minutes and the IPMA/PSCM combo takes 3 hours, so for those, we have learned since this thread was created that 20amp is not enough.

 

[Riverant]

The Clore PL2320 is what I use and what is recommended for ICE vehicle that have a 12v battery with double or more capacity than what comes in the EV's. The 20amp may be good enough for most updates, but the CMR takes 45-60 minutes and the IPMA/PSCM combo takes 3 hours, so for those, we have learned since this thread was created that 20amp is not enough.

Ah that makes sense. Looking on Amazon, 40a power supply options seem well above what the PL2320 costs ($400+?). Might have to rethink my interest in FDRS.

 

[rugedraw]

Ah that makes sense. Looking on Amazon, 40a power supply options seem well above what the PL2320 costs ($400+?). Might have to rethink my interest in FDRS.

There are cheaper options out there that work. Maybe someone else can chine in with what they used; or check the FDRS thread on the Mach E forum for other options. I know @Mike G used two Clore PL2320's at the same time for a while with success.

 

[PJnc284]

yeah I wouldn't do anything less 75amps since the battery is tiny and those updates can draw 60amps+ for several hours. Some have piggy backed two PL2320s and still had the update crap out. You "might" get away with it by making sure the 12v is fully charged and you're only doing one non-usb update but not sure I'd chance it for a few hundred dollars. I used a Powermax PMBC-75 (~$300) when I did my 6hr+ marathon. The 100 amp options range from a little over $400 for the clore pl6100 to $500+ for the shumacher INC100.

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