Ford Charge Station Pro a bust so far

[Briendevine]

I’m only getting a charge rate of 3.4kw/hr with my 80 kw charger.
It clicks into the low rate almost immediately. Supposedly Ford has an auto update to fix it, but it been over a month. Is anyone else having this this problem, I’m better off using a dryer outlet.

Mine did it once. I turned off the breaker and waited a minute and turned it back on. It changes at 13kw after the restart.

Sponsored

 

[chl]

Reducing the rate will reduce the hum a little.

Hum can also be a sign of a poor ground, poor connections, or overloaded circuits among other things.

If the ground connection, or the hot wires inside the FCSP were not torqued to the correct level, that could be the cause.

With the power OFF tighten the connections to the specified torque (need a torque driver to do that).

The power connections in image: HOT (Black), HOT (Red) Ground (Green).

For those of you having troubles connecting to wifi etc., sometimes a reset using the circuit board button does the trick.

BTW the current setting wheel is just to the right of the reset button.

I had to use that reset to get mine working with my wifi.

There was an update to the software recently (Mar & Apr 2025) that helped, but unless your FCSP can connect and communicate with the wifi, you will not get it.

Use a 2.4GHz wifi signal - it will travel farther and through more walls than the 5GHz.

Be sure your FordPass device (tablet, phone) is connected to the same signal as you chose for the FCSP (a 2.4GHz connection).

Sometimes it takes a few (many) tries with the setup crAPP to find the FCSP signal and if after many times you still can't, try flipping the power off for a couple minutes then back on. If that fails, then try the circuit board reset button.

It takes a lot of patience, believe me!

LIMITED CURRENT Problems: they can also be because of loose wiring, not torqued to spec. The things already mentioned can also be an issue (current dial and default setting in FordPass if you have connected to the FCSP with FordPass).

I used mine as a dumb charger for 6 months or so because I could not get the last step of the set-up crAPP to add the FCSP to FordPass, but the software update recently fixed that issue.

The March and April 2025 FCSP software and firmware updates:

Software: 2.112.125.3.15.3.15.3.15.3.15
Firmware: 5.0.25

Good luck.

 

[chl]

Make sure your Fordpass app setting under Energy > Charge Station > Settings is set to 80 amps, we've seen recent reports where folks have found "Max Charge Current" set at 16 amps out of the box, edit it to 80 amps or what ever your installed setup requires.

Yes, good idea...

I had mine default to something very low but only after I was able to add it to FordPass. (Before adding to FordPass it worked as a dumb EVSE but at full volume (48A)).

So, for the first time I noticed that the blue pulse with amber was on when charging meaning a reduced charge rate. I thought oh no, a wiring issue?

But then I checked the charge station settings through FordPass and it was set to some ridiculously low rate!

After I raised it back to 48A, no problems charging at full power.

For those with issues, refer to the status light table:

Still a few bugs in the system, as they say.

 

[chl]

What is the firmware version of the FCSP? There was a previous firmware version that some people (including me) had that resulted in a charge current of about 3.5 amps. A firmware update a couple months ago fixed the problem.

Now March 16, 2025
Software: 2.112.125.3.15.3.15.3.15.3.15

Now April 12, 2025
Firmware: 5.0.25

 

[chl]

Or 6AWG THHN in a conduit, such as either pvc, EMT, MC etc.

That's how I did mine, ran 3 wires through flexible conduit - much easier for my situation with a 65 foot run from garage through an attic to the panel at the back of the house in the basement.

A split level house.
Used a surveyor's tape to measure distances.
I thought I might have to use an alternate route and over-bought wire and conduit.
THHN wires.

 

[chl]

Well the charger would have no way of “knowing” what size breaker it’s connected to. That’s why the max setting dip switches on the board are for. But yes the OP does need to confirm what it’s connected to so that he knows.

It's a wheel deal on the circuit board to change max current but same things as dip switches in effect.

If on a 20A breaker that would have popped fairly quickly (hopefully) if set higher that 20A.

There is no 20A setting on the current dial/wheel, but there is a 16A and a 24A.

3.4kW and 240V would be about 14A so could be the 16A max setting on a 20A breaker (80% of 20A is 16A and some power loss can be expected which would get you to 3.4kW - but I doubt it - that would be pathetically slow, but anything is possible I guess.

If not on a 20A breaker with the current wheel set to 16A max, then...

I would first check the FordAss crAPP setting - mine defaulted to something really ridiculously low like 6A and I had to raise it back to 48A.

If that isn't the prob, then check the torquing of the connections - they can loosen over time after the initial install, or not have been torque correctly itfp. Loose connections can cause a reduced rate of charging because the FCSP will heat up - some on the forum have reported that.

 

[TaxmanHog]

Now March 16, 2025
Software: 2.112.125.3.15.3.15.3.15.3.15

Now April 12, 2025
Firmware: 5.0.25

This thread is pinned to the top of the charging section, when it changes I'll create a new thread:

FCSP Software Version 2.112.125:3.15:3.15:3.15:3.15

Previously answered.


Read threads to the end before adding redundant comments.

 

[astrand1]

It's a wheel deal on the circuit board to change max current but same things as dip switches in effect.

If on a 20A breaker that would have popped fairly quickly (hopefully) if set higher that 20A.

There is no 20A setting on the current dial/wheel, but there is a 16A and a 24A.

3.4kW and 240V would be about 14A so could be the 16A max setting on a 20A breaker (80% of 20A is 16A and some power loss can be expected which would get you to 3.4kW - but I doubt it - that would be pathetically slow, but anything is possible I guess.

If not on a 20A breaker with the current wheel set to 16A max, then...

I would first check the FordAss crAPP setting - mine defaulted to something really ridiculously low like 6A and I had to raise it back to 48A.

If that isn't the prob, then check the torquing of the connections - they can loosen over time after the initial install, or not have been torque correctly itfp. Loose connections can cause a reduced rate of charging because the FCSP will heat up - some on the forum have reported that.

You’re correct it is a dial. I dont know what made me think it was dip switches. Guess I’m getting old ?

 

[Maquis]

You’re correct it is a dial. I dont know what made me think it was dip switches. Guess I’m getting old ?

The Ford Connected Charge Station has DIP switches. I have both (FCCS and FCSP) and it’s easy to mix them up.

 

[chl]

Previously answered.


Read threads to the end before adding redundant comments.

Sorry I missed the answer somehow. It seemed like it was asked twice, but maybe I'm wrong/

The FCSP issues are a recurring topic with a lot of the same Q's and A's, lots of redundancy.

Sorry, I guess it makes more work for the moderator.

Ford should have a FAQ for the FCSP based on all the things we have come across as issues and solutions on the forum, eh?

 

[chl]

The Ford Connected Charge Station has DIP switches. I have both (FCCS and FCSP) and it’s easy to mix them up.

I know, I did too when I first got the Lightning and started looking for faster EVSEs.
Half the time if you google one, you find answers about the other...
Why couldn't Ford make the names more distinct?

Sponsored