Out with HIS, in with GenerLink

[Mike G]

Because the GenerLink + Ford product is in soft launch... not every state is listed yet, but they eventually will.


$1,099 for the GenerLink, 20' GenerLok Cable, Ford Vehicle Connector. Longer GenerLok cables add cost.

Meter-Mounted:
https://shopgenerlink.com/products/generlink-transfer-switch-ford-bundle
Meter-Adjacent:
https://shopgenerlink.com/products/generlink-meter-adjacent-solution-ford-bundle

Right, I guess that's what I mean...is there special pricing on offer through that Generlink/Ford Owner website that's different than if I buy it through Generlink's own site? That site shows my utility provider and state location is actually approved right now...but the Ford affiliated site doesn't, and I'm wondering why that is.

I mean what are Ford (or Ford and Generlink, whatever) waiting for?

I did check the link above....what's a "Ford Vehicle Connector" when it's at home? Looks like a pigtail to me....like one I think I already own in fact.

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[Midlomac]

I’m in the same boat as a lot of people here. Dominion energy is our monopoly electric utility in Virginia and hasn’t approved the direct mount to meter option, so would need to go with the adjacent meter route, or wait it out. Will probably just bite the bullet and go with the adjacent meter option. A transfer switch doesn’t give you the same flexibility of deciding which of all your circuits you want to have energized with the power you’ve got to supply, and vary it. The question is do I do it before the first black out, or wait and then get mad at myself for waiting when it happens.

 

[Free Charging]

Doesn't look like Georgia Power has approved it yet.

 

[Mike G]

I’m in the same boat as a lot of people here. Dominion energy is our monopoly electric utility in Virginia and hasn’t approved the direct mount to meter option, so would need to go with the adjacent meter route, or wait it out. Will probably just bite the bullet and go with the adjacent meter option. A transfer switch doesn’t give you the same flexibility of deciding which of all your circuits you want to have energized with the power you’ve got to supply, and vary it. The question is do I do it before the first black out, or wait and then get mad at myself for waiting when it happens.

Well assuming you've got the 7.2K option from your truck you'd just have to go into the panel and shut off some of the big things like HVAC and water heater initially, to see what the draw is once you're connected with the truck. If it's within the limits you can then add loads incrementally until you cap out and the pro power cuts off. That's what I would end up doing. I have two HVACs and a tankless water heater. I'm not going to be using any of those initially until I can determine what sort of load is on the system first. Then I can add them one at a time and check to see how close I am to the limit.

 

[Midlomac]

Well assuming you've got the 7.2K option from your truck you'd just have to go into the panel and shut off some of the big things like HVAC and water heater initially, to see what the draw is once you're connected with the truck. If it's within the limits you can then add loads incrementally until you cap out and the pro power cuts off. That's what I would end up doing. I have two HVACs and a tankless water heater. I'm not going to be using any of those initially until I can determine what sort of load is on the system first. Then I can add them one at a time and check to see how close I am to the limit.

Yes, have the 9.6/ 7.2K pro power on a 123 kWh Flash battery. It seems the initial start up current may be the thing to manage, since going over the 30 A limit for an instant will still make it trip. Not thinking the heat pump is going to be an option for us, though. Trane 3 ton pulls greater than 100 A for 0.4 sec, and even with a soft start looks like it will still be significantly above 30 A. Good news is we have dual fuel, so although we may sweat some in the summer, won’t freeze in the winter.

 

[PrimeRisk]

Conceivably, one could self-install the GenerLink (it's so straight forward), in those states where it is not legal, but not sure what the penalties would IF they even discover you have it connected.

Your utility has the power to leave you with no power.

Your utility can deny providing you service if you tamper with any of their equipment. The meter housing is the transition point between what you own and what they own. If they find anything "interfering" with it they can shut off the service, pull the meter, and leave it that way until you correct the condition. They can also turn you in for a code compliance violation and get the governing authorities on you.

If you have a smart meter, they'll know too. Any disconnect of the meter, even for a few seconds, will be detected and they'll likey roll a truck to see what you've been up to. When they inspect, they'll find the device and the broken seal. They may leave you with a demand to remove the device and bill you for a service call. They may also remove the device and put the meter back in where it was.

People were self-installing whole-home surge protectors in the meter housing in the same way. Our local utility was having none of that and would pull any device they found if it wasn't on an approved list and coordinated with them. As a penalty, when they removed it they would bill you for the service call and confiscate the device.

In addition, any unpermitted installation could result in denied insurance coverage in case of fire or lightning damage.

 

[roddiaz1]

Spoken with authority, like someone in the know.
Hopefully not from personal experience. ;-)

 

[JRDM2]

It seems the initial start up current may be the thing to manage, since going over the 30 A limit for an instant will still make it trip. Not thinking the heat pump is going to be an option for us, though. Trane 3 ton pulls greater than 100 A for 0.4 sec, and even with a soft start looks like it will still be significantly above 30 A. Good news is we have dual fuel, so although we may sweat some in the summer, won’t freeze in the winter.

This thing sounds like a good way to manage surge loads: MICRO-AIR EasyStart FLEX 398. It's an adjustable soft starter that you can hook up to air conditioners.

 

[TaxmanHog]

PLEASE ..... follow local regulations, no need to argue about the NEC CODE sections.

 

[jwrezz]

This was a good watch regarding surge loads on AC units.

 

[Midlomac]

Called Dominion Energy in Va today to try and confirm what Generlink options they accepted. After three people transfers, I got someone who would talk to me. She said Generlink wasn’t approved, I then explained the adjacent meter option, to which she said they had nothing on it, but it sounded like it would be okay. It would still need to have a power disconnect and reconnect scheduled through their eBuilder app. Called the nearest Generlink installer from their website, and as soon as I said the adjacent meter option was the one I’d have to go with, he gave a price of $4 - 5k, plus parts. Said he’d done only one of the adjacent meters before (all others were direct meter mounts, which are accepted in his area that use’s Appalachian Power instead of Dominon) and would have to pull a permit, schedule the disconnect and reconnect,…. He suggested going with a portable generator interlock kit for my specific panel. Looked that up, and it’s basically a lock out switch you have to engage after you throw your house main breaker, which then cuts in another breaker (ie, 30 amp) which governs your whole panel supply. Other threads in the forum talk about it, but say it has a ground problem, and to get it to work you need to trim off the ground connector from your cord. Also a good amount of discussion on how this is not code, and if you screw it up, you’re bearing the responsibility for the consequences.

 

[jwrezz]

Called Dominion Energy in Va today to try and confirm what Generlink options they accepted. After three people transfers, I got someone who would talk to me. She said Generlink wasn’t approved, I then explained the adjacent meter option, to which she said they had nothing on it, but it sounded like it would be okay. It would still need to have a power disconnect and reconnect scheduled through their eBuilder app. Called the nearest Generlink installer from their website, and as soon as I said the adjacent meter option was the one I’d have to go with, he gave a price of $4 - 5k, plus parts. Said he’d done only one of the adjacent meters before (all others were direct meter mounts, which are accepted in his area that use’s Appalachian Power instead of Dominon) and would have to pull a permit, schedule the disconnect and reconnect,…. He suggested going with a portable generator interlock kit for my specific panel. Looked that up, and it’s basically a lock out switch you have to engage after you throw your house main breaker, which then cuts in another breaker (ie, 30 amp) which governs your whole panel supply. Other threads in the forum talk about it, but say it has a ground problem, and to get it to work you need to trim off the ground connector from your cord. Also a good amount of discussion on how this is not code, and if you screw it up, you’re bearing the responsibility for the consequences.

Cuz the utility does it and doesn't have to adhere to codes, it's ok, but if we want to do it, it's not up to code. That means no one will touch it. It is literally what their kit does. Gives you a pigtail connector that eliminates the ground and uses your home's existing ground. Can't have two ground/neutral bonds and that's what messes up the truck. I have an interlock that was installed for my generator after Sandy. It's served me fine, and continues to work with my smaller battery inverter system without the ground. My generator came with a ground/neutral bond but I disconnected it and made a ground/neutral plug to plug into it when I use it as a stand-alone/portable generator. The truck is basically the same thing.

 

[branden]

Would be great if they just sold the tiny "Ford Vehicle Connector" separately - would be great to have an "official" option to recommend people to use with a generator inlet and interlock vs having to make your own and leave the ground disconnected (even though that's almost certainly what the "Ford Vehicle Connector" is).

 

[Mike G]

Would be great if they just sold the tiny "Ford Vehicle Connector" separately - would be great to have an "official" option to recommend people to use with a generator inlet and interlock vs having to make your own and leave the ground disconnected (even though that's almost certainly what the "Ford Vehicle Connector" is).

I think the Ford Connector pigtail simply has the ground lead disabled in the plug. That's based on an email I have with one of their sales staff.

On a related note..I just sprung for the 30 Amps (L14-30 Plug) behind the meter version using the July 4th Sale discount code to get $150 off.

This code is good through the 6th of July JULY4SALE

I did request the Ford Vehicle Connector pigtail be sent along with the order separately since Alabama isn't listed specifically in this Ford/Generlink program...but I have been assured that my utility does approve of this mod, and in fact will install it for free.

 

[Alec313H]

I am in Alabama, i just got off the phone with the generlink customer service and they said i can purchase it and i didn't have to be in the states that were on the website.

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