Real-World Home Power Backup Options Using F-150 Lightning

[cowboys1870]

I added two 120V neutral switching transfer switches (I don’t have the bed 240V). I paid $300 to have the pair installed, and $700 EVSE install.

One powers my NG furnace, and the second does the master bedroom + living room TV + fridge via extension cord

https://ezgeneratorswitch.com/

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[Traconesu]

Hi there - first time posting, big-time F-150 Lightning fan!

Here today as I've spent hours reading as many forum posts and electrician articles about possibilities to use the F-150 as a backup generator. However, many of these posts get in-depth on the "why" a particular solution won't work (particularly around F-150 outlets being netural-bonded / GFCI), but not necessarily exact specifics on how to make it work.

Personally, I'm trying to find the most cost-effective option that allows me to use a standard generator inlet (ideally without the added cost/complexity of a transfer switch), so I'm torn between options C and D below (assuming E isn't really an option).

This is what I've found in order of cost - with a few questions:

• A) Sunrun-Installed Home Integration System + Ford Charge Station Pro ($9,400)
  • Pro: Theoretically the "correct" solution offering the most power out of the truck and as easy as calling Sunrun
  • Con: Most expensive, large equipment, only EVs with a combo charging port can use the CSP (e.g. no plug-in hybrids with a basic J1772 - at least I couldn't find an adapter), Sunrun may not be the easiest to work with
    • Question: Anyone know of a J1772 to J1772 CCS1 adapter?
• B) Non-Sunrun Installed HIS + Ford CSP (Estimating $5k to $9k range)
  • Pro: Theoretically adds some cost savings / customer service improvement using your own electrician
  • Con: Might have issues if electrician isn't familiar with this kind of equipment
  • Detail: $3,895 minimum for the equipment (assuming the CSP came with your truck), so as long as your electrician quotes less than $5,505 you should be saving some $$$
• C) Neutral-Switching Transfer Switch + Generator Inlet + 240v Bed Outlet + Cord (Estimating $3k-$5k including EVSE install)
  • Pro: Substantially cheaper than HIS. Flexible backup option as you can just use a regular portable generator and makes your house "generator ready". Forces you to identify and limit backup power to the "critical" circuits in your house, but you don't have to deal with load management as much later (some may see this as a con)
  • Con: Requires a very specific type of transfer switch that is "Neutral Switching". To the best of my knowledge, I can only find 2 options readily available (Reliance used to have one, but recently discontinued it at least as of Dec 2022)
    • Generac 9854 (50A)- $620 - I know the truck outlet is 30A, but I like this option to maximize options, e.g. portable generator
      • To connect a 50A inlet to the truck's 30A outlet, I'm considering using this adapter + a regular 50A generator cord.
    • Generac 6852 (30A) - $380
    • Question: Can anyone share a link to any other readily-available 50A or 30A "Neutral-Switching Transfer Switches"?
  • Detail: As part of this, I actually had the Clipper Creek HCS-80 HVSE installed ($1,066 on Amazon + $1.6k installation for me including local permit) since I didn't want the J1772 Combo plug and big Ford branding.
• D) Basic Generator Inlet + Interlocked Breaker + Cord + Generator (Estimating $3-$4k including a $1k generator and EVSE install)
  • Pro: Eliminate the neutral-bonded / GFCI discussion and just buy a compatible portable gas generator
  • Con: You have to worry about storing, fueling and maintaining a portable gas generator + noise when it's running
• E) Basic Generator Inlet + Interlocked Breaker + Cord (Estimating $2-$3k if it can be done including EVSE install)
  • ***There is a good chance this is NOT possible due to the neutral-bonded / GFCI aspect of the truck outlets***
  • Pro: Theoretically least expensive/complex option. Allows full flexibility in your main panel of what to turn on if using backup power.
  • Con: Doesn't appear this can be done and meet NEC code requirements (e.g. without messing with disconnecting grounds, etc.)
  • Question: Does anyone know a code-compliant way to do this?
• F) Extension Cords + 120v outlets (Under $200)
  • Pro: Just plug in and go!
  • Con: May have power loss on very long extension cords. Not very aesthetically pleasing. Not sure if this is NEC acceptable.
  • Detail: This literally means plugging a regular extension cord into the 120v outlets and running into the house through doorways/windows etc in an emergency situation.

Phew - that was a lot. If I missed any options, let me know and I'm happy to update this post!

I run my home from solar. The grid is how I charge my solar batteries if my solar batteries get low because of cloudy days and in that instance If the grid is down I use a 60 amp manual reliance transfer switch that let's my truck charge my solar batteries. Since my solar battery charger sees my truck as a main bonded neutral there's no need connect the trucks ground wire to the transfer switch. Only the two hot legs are transfered and the neutrals are always connected. Therefore no ground fault on my truck. And the solar battery charger thinks it's connected to the grid. I've got a good ground from the main service panel to my solar battery charger. My main panel is bonded, my truck is bonded and no ground fault.

 

[Lightning Rod]

I just installed the Micro-Air Flex SoftStart unit onto my AC compressor and it works like a charm! It took about 30 minutes, and 25 minutes was finding a place to put the unit and securing it.

Thanks. $400 well spent.

Oh, I forgot to mention...

During the after-installation backup test, the Lightning ran the whole house AND the AC, flawlessly! I turned the AC on several times during a 15 minute test while plugged into the Lightning. It ran both refrigerators, I had many lights on, 2 TVs, router and everything that usually runs on a typical day at my home, and had zero issues. I can't wait for another power outage!

 

[GDN]

I have a 5 ton unit with a LRA of 185A. It has now dropped to 30A and I can run it with my PointGuard system as part of the whole home backup.

Congrats. Love the MicroAir, but my 5 ton unit is just not efficient enough. It's 10 years old, 17 SEER American Standard. It pulls too much for the truck. I can run everything else in the house though. Clothes dryer, Oven, Pool Pump, Central Heat. But no AC.

 

[Lightning Rod]

Congrats. Love the MicroAir, but my 5 ton unit is just not efficient enough. It's 10 years old, 17 SEER American Standard. It pulls too much for the truck. I can run everything else in the house though. Clothes dryer, Oven, Pool Pump, Central Heat. But no AC.

That's most unfortunate. Did you use their latest product; EasyStart FLEX? That unit is supposed to handle up to 6 ton AC units. My AC unit is old also... 19 years old! It's only a 3 ton, but that EasyStart FLEX should be all that you need, according to them.

 

[GDN]

That's most unfortunate. Did you use their latest product; EasyStart FLEX? That unit is supposed to handle up to 6 ton AC units. My AC unit is old also... 19 years old! It's only a 3 ton, but that EasyStart FLEX should be all that you need, according to them.

That is good to know. I may reach out to them. I knew they had a new single product to support all size units. I have the older style that is sized to the AC tonnage you have. I didn’t know the new units were also more efficient at startup. I’d love to be a guinea pig for them or see if they’d give me some credit toward a trade. I’d love to know I could run this AC from the truck. I don’t need to run it all at once. I can trade off for a few hours back and forth if needed with other appliances. I can go days without needing an over or a clothes dryer.

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