The Home Integration System Departs With A Whimper

[Jim Lewis]

While discussing the Home Integration System with someone, it was pointed out that automatic BPT (and the Home Integration System) has become a "non-person" with Ford, and transfer using PPOB via a Generlink switch is now officially the new thing with Ford.

Ford web page on BPT troubleshooting, relevant text copied below URL: https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/electric-vehicles/home-charging/what-is-ford-home-backup-power/

Automatic Home Backup Power Troubleshooting

Before attempting to troubleshoot, ensure the following:

• Your home and F-150 Lightning meet the requirements for Home Backup Power.
• Home Backup Power has been set up and activated.
• The vehicle's rear passenger-side corner is closest to your charger. This ensures a strong Bluetooth connection.
• The rear passenger seat is folded down to minimize obstructions between the antenna and the charger.

Plug Cycle Home Backup Power

1. Turn on your F-150 Lightning.
2. Unplug it from your Charge Station Pro.
3. Wait at least 30 seconds.
4. Plug in your truck.

Home Backup Power should now be active.
Note: You may need to repeat this process several times to trigger Home Backup Power.

No mention of troubleshooting automatic BPT.... Just the manual solution. IIRC, on the general BPT page I linked to, it mentions that the Home Integration System requires an FCSP, and, oh, BTW, the FCSP is no longer made. Generlink transfer using PPOB gets first billing on the Ford BPT web page.

There is further discussion of Generlink availability and use in the following thread: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/new-generlink-option-tn-and-utah.35784/

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[Firn]

Too bad they can't link the front and rear inverter to allow the full 9.6kw output for home backup

 

[leejimerson]

Wow! @Ford says “The Ford Charge Station Pro, required for Automatic Home Backup Power, is no longer for sale”.
My question is for those of us that already have one, does Ford support servicing the FCSP for 10 years after the date of purchase?
I’m already on my second FCSP and expect this one to die (communications module went out the first time) in the next few years, which would render my Home Integration System useless.
My Hone Integration System works great in manual mode. I use it almost daiIy to run the house during the day/evening when power rates are higher than at night.
I hope Ford is saving some old FCSPs and/or parts for existing owners.
Or should I “self-insure” and buy a spare FCSP on the secondary market, while they are still available?

 

[chl]

Too bad they can't link the front and rear inverter to allow the full 9.6kw output for home backup

Yes.
The two 'rear' 120VAC inverters are synchronized to produce a 240VAC 30A split-phase output, but the 'front' one is not synchronized with either of those, as was verified by someone and posted here in a discussion.

There are inverters that will detect the utility or other source wave/phase and synchronize with it when present (no outage), that are used with so-called balcony/plug-in solar systems.

It occurred to me the 120VAC 20A front inverter output could be run through an AC-DC converter and then the DC out run through a plug in solar type inverter to synch with the other AC outputs, but it would not be worth the $$ for an extra 10A and there would be losses in the conversions.

The SIGenergy system can tap into the DC from the Lightning or Mach-e charge port, but it is expensive as well. It is turn key and automatic so there is a market for it - and it actually works!



I can live with the 30A from the bed outlet and my $400 GENERAC 6853 manual transfer switch during an outage..

 

[Tony Burgh]

Waiting on Godot (Enphase 11.4 kW home backup system)

 

[chl]

While discussing the Home Integration System with someone, it was pointed out that automatic BPT (and the Home Integration System) has become a "non-person" with Ford, and transfer using PPOB via a Generlink switch is now officially the new thing with Ford.

Ford web page on BPT troubleshooting, relevant text copied below URL: https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/electric-vehicles/home-charging/what-is-ford-home-backup-power/



No mention of troubleshooting automatic BPT.... Just the manual solution. IIRC, on the general BPT page I linked to, it mentions that the Home Integration System requires an FCSP, and, oh, BTW, the FCSP is no longer made. Generlink transfer using PPOB gets first billing on the Ford BPT web page.

There is further discussion of Generlink availability and use in the following thread: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/new-generlink-option-tn-and-utah.35784/

OMG, that rigamarole process for getting a good BT signal is hysterical - funny but not funny actually.

I suppose a BT transmission booster (transmitter/receiver) would be a lot less hassle, if it could be added to the Lightning?

Maybe @Jesse-Infotainment has a solution for that?

 

[chl]

While discussing the Home Integration System with someone, it was pointed out that automatic BPT (and the Home Integration System) has become a "non-person" with Ford, and transfer using PPOB via a Generlink switch is now officially the new thing with Ford.

Ford web page on BPT troubleshooting, relevant text copied below URL: https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/electric-vehicles/home-charging/what-is-ford-home-backup-power/

No mention of troubleshooting automatic BPT.... Just the manual solution. IIRC, on the general BPT page I linked to, it mentions that the Home Integration System requires an FCSP, and, oh, BTW, the FCSP is no longer made. Generlink transfer using PPOB gets first billing on the Ford BPT web page.

There is further discussion of Generlink availability and use in the following thread: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/new-generlink-option-tn-and-utah.35784/

If you read the GENERLINK setup manual FROM PG&E, it specifically says it should NOT be usedwith a bonded generator, which is what the Lightning is essentially.

----
Generator Setup and Operation Guidelines
Grounding
Your generator must be properly connected to an appropriate ground to help prevent electric shock.
• Failure to use the BPTM with a non- bonded or floating neutral generator can result in electric shock.
---

The double-negative "failure to use...with a non-bonded" = must use with an un-bonded floating neutral source.

The Lightning PPOB is a neutral bonded sourece.

 

[chl]

If you read the GENERLINK setup manual, it specifically says it should NOT be usedwith a bonded generator, which is what the Lightning is essentially.

----
Generator Setup and Operation Guidelines
Grounding
Your generator must be properly connected to an appropriate ground to help prevent electric shock.
• Failure to use the BPTM with a non- bonded or floating neutral generator can result in electric shock.
---

The double-negative "failure to use...with a non-bonded" = must use with an un-bonded floating neutral source.

The Lightning PPOB is a neutral bonded sourece.

However, I see the link says to use a "GENERLOK" cord, so they must have solved that issue?

"Position your vehicle so that your GenerLok cord will be able to comfortably reach from the meter to the 240V outlet in the truck bed. Your cord should not be suspended in the air."

PS: The manual at the Ford owners link mentions this special connector:

Ford Vehicle Connector:

The Ford Vehicle Connector is a 12inch connector that goes between the GenerLok cord and the Ford Pro Power Onboard (PPO) 240V outlet. It is designed to be used only with the PPO and GenerLink and allows PPO to provide power to single or double occupancy dwellings. When not in use, store the Ford Vehicle Connector indoors.

WARNING: The Ford Vehicle Connector is approved for use only between the GenerLink and the Ford Pro Power Onboard (PPO) 240V outlet and is not approved for use in any other application....

ELECTRICAL SHOCK HAZARD
• For use only with Ford Pro Power Onboard 240V outlet and GenerLink transfer switch.

 

[Zaptor]

Gave up on this ever working awhile ago, but kept eyes open...

Just bought a fairly large Anker E10 system (3 power heads, 7 batteries, Power Dock) which all-in cost about the same as what some people paid to get HIS installed and has generator (Lightning) input capability (and allegedly a V2H plug for the 4th Power Dock inlet at some point).


I'll have the same auto-transfer capability, 200A of switched service, and 42 kWh (7x6) of battery to peak shift and be a true backup if SHTF.

It has enough capacity to charge EVs, run my well pump and all the lights, heat, dishwasher, laundry etc I can throw at it. Yep, I'm 'locked' into their ecosystem, but that's no different from where I'd have been with Ford's 'solution'. I have no stake in the company and received no consideration for this mention (which I feel needs to be said nowadays!)

Cheers
Zap

 

[El Duderino]

There is another thread where we were discussing the Generlink option. A forum member called the manufacturer and they said you have to use a Lightning specific cable. My best guess is the ground is disconnected like everyone else is doing but the manufacturer didn't specifically say they are.

 

[chl]

Assuming the Ford Vehicle Connector is there to avoid GFCI tripping due to a dual bond, I wonder how they accomplished this without creating a shock hazard?

All their literature and utility recommendations up to this point have said to only use an un-bonded, floating neutral generator with the GENERLINK system, or convert the generator to floating neutral by removing the bond at the generator and specifically said NOT to simply disconnect the ground wire between the generator and the GENERLINK system due to the risk of a shock hazard in the case of a fault.

"Per the National Electric Code, all generators must have a "floating neutral" when used with the GenerLink Automatic Transfer Switch. Please refer to the generator operation manual for bonded neutral specifications. "

Generator Compatibility & Requirements

To ensure a seamless connection with a GenerLink system, a portable generator must meet the following specifications:

• Four-Prong Outlet: The generator must have a 14-30 (30-amp) or 14-50 (50-amp) four-prong outlet. This allows for two hot wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire to connect safely to the device.
• Voltage Output: The unit must be a 120/240-volt generator. Single-voltage (120V only) units are not compatible as they cannot power both “legs” of your home’s electrical panel.
• Circuit Breaker Protection: The generator must have an integrated circuit breaker. This acts as a secondary safety layer to prevent overloading the GenerLink or your home’s wiring.
• Clean Power (Recommended): For homeowners planning to run sensitive electronics (like laptops or smart TVs), a generator with a Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) of less than 5% is highly recommended.
• Maximum Capacity: The generator’s continuous running wattage should not exceed the rating of the GenerLink model installed (typically available in 30-amp or 40-amp versions).

Neutral Bond Compatibility Note

One of the most common technical hurdles is the “Floating Neutral” vs. “Bonded Neutral” configuration.

Important: Most GenerLink models require a generator with a Floating Neutral. If your generator has a “Bonded Neutral,” it may trip the ground fault protection. A licensed electrician can quickly determine your generator’s configuration and advise if a simple modification is needed.

-------

So what is that 'Connector' doing?

To make the PPOB a floating neutral system would require unbonding the neutral at the truck. A 'connector' at the outlet is not going to actually do that - the bonding is a jumper connection between the neutral and the chassis at the inverters.

And disconnecting the ground wire from the house ground would be a safety issue should a fault occur.

 

[chl]

There is another thread where we were discussing the Generlink option. A forum member called the manufacturer and they said you have to use a Lightning specific cable. My best guess is the ground is disconnected like everyone else is doing but the manufacturer didn't specifically say they are.

That could be, but it is not consistent with all their previous literature, and what the code requires, that the source has to be connected to the house grounding electrode system.

AND if so, why wouldn't they say here use this adapter (the Ford Connector) with any bonded generator?

NOTE: What the GENERLINK FAQs says:
----
Why do I need a Ford Vehicle Connector?
Ford and Global Power Products developed the proprietary Ford Vehicle Connector, a short cable that makes the GenerLink compatible with the Ford truck and helps ensure the Pro Power Onboard built-in OSHA-compliant GFCI functions correctly when providing essential home backup power. The connection requires a two-part cable system: the Ford Vehicle Connector plugs into the 240V outlet (L14-30) in the truck bed, which then attaches to the GenerLok cable that plugs into the GenerLink unit that is installed either on the meter or next to the meter.

Do I need to ground the truck when using the GenerLink?
No. The vehicle chassis is bonded to neutral (grounded conductor). The grounded conductor passes through the Ford Vehicle Connector and GenerLok cable to the home service entrance where the neutral (grounded conductor) is bonded to the ground (grounding conductor). The grounding conductor is connected to the grounding electrode (ground rod) which provides an electrical path to earth. In simpler terms, when connected through the GenerLink system, the truck's electrical system is designed to safely use your home's existing grounding system, providing a secure electrical path to the earth.
----
They are saying the neutral is bonded in two places, the truck and the house.
But they are saying the utility neutral and the truck neutral are connected which make it a non-separately derived system.
A non-separately derived system requires a continuous equipment ground:

So if they are lifting the ground, they are not complying with the NEC.

 

[Joe Dablock]

FYI: My FCSP is junk and anyone can have it. I live in York Co, Pennsylvania. ( It quit working, and when I opened it up, water ran out of it.) I replaced it with a regular Ford class 2 wall charger.

 

[MountainAlive]

I’m still holding out hope this thing becomes available for sale this year. The demo videos show it working with a Lightning. https://enphase.com/ev-chargers/bidirectional

 

[Jim Lewis]

I think if my Home Integration System just goes belly up someday and I can't get it fixed by Ford or Sunrun, I'll just switch to a transfer switch and be happy with 7.2 kW from the truck bed. The Enphase IQ Bidirectional Charger seems too expensive, and will it work with the Lightning if it doesn't fully support ISO15118-20?

Current reality (as of now)

• Ford Lightning does NOT publicly support open V2H/V2G via ISO 15118-20

On the Generlink transfer switch, I have no desire to go out in pouring rain with thunder and lightning and plug the Generlink cable in near my very exposed meter. Another brilliant idea from @Ford Motor Company! So, I will go with a transfer switch setup that I can operate from inside my house that will feed my main subpanel (all lighting and electrical outlets in the house) as my Home Integration System does now. And, as I have promised before, if Home Integration System support fades away in the coming years before the useful life of my vehicle expires, and Ford never fixes automatic Backup Power Transfer, I will never, ever buy another Ford motor vehicle and discourage all friends and neighbors from buying one, too, as Ford so far has completely blown off an expensive complex feature that it advertised initially as a premier reason for buying a Lightning.

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