Stranded - phone as a key stopped working

[RickLightning]

Yes, I get no key detected. I do not get a prompt to enter my backup passcode.

Do Accessory Start, reboot Sync if it let's you.

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[xycarp]

tried removing and reinstalling app. Now the phone as a key is totally gone. I guess I’ll just waiting for the fob now.

No idea why I no longer get the prompt for the backup passcode.

 

[chl]

I just got an update that FedEx won’t deliver the fob until Monday. So much for guaranteed over night.

Is there a more direct way to force the drive password prompt to appear. I’ve not even been able to try my password.

See this post - might be applicable. Turning on the climate remotely with FORD app.

"...What I didn't expect is the instrument panel display (IPD?) had a message that said "push start button to start vehicle". Hmmm... I do not have my key fob with me and PAAK was not active. I hit the start button and the SYNC screen asked me to enter my password. Hmm, when I entered the PW I was able to put the car in reverse or drive. I was in a carport and choose to move the car only a few inches before putting it back in park. Sitting there trying to understand what had just happed, I tried to put in park again and it wouldn't go. The IPD popped up again to "push start to start vehicle" and once again it asked for a PW. I did and once again I was able to drive the truck. Now I think the only reason I had a password was because I did have PAAK active for a few months and had only turned it off to trouble shoot the key detection problem..."

 

[chl]

It could be a weak 12v battery issue of course...it can affect so many things. Jump it and see if that helps.

 

[RickLightning]

tried removing and reinstalling app. Now the phone as a key is totally gone. I guess I’ll just waiting for the fob now.

No idea why I no longer get the prompt for the backup passcode.

And the code is how gone...

 

[TaxmanHog]

CARDINAL RULE

NEVER --- EVER --- delete Ford App when you do not have immediate access to a FOB, even if it's malfunctioning.

 

[JCCZ75]

tried removing and reinstalling app. Now the phone as a key is totally gone. I guess I’ll just waiting for the fob now.

No idea why I no longer get the prompt for the backup passcode.

Deleting and reinstalling the app was the worst advice you could have gotten. That wipes out any PAAK you have saved.

 

[MontanaLightning]

It could be a weak 12v battery issue of course...it can affect so many things. Jump it and see if that helps.

I was wondering about this. The other day AC charging would fail after 10 minutes or so. I checked 12v and it was low. Charged the 12v and AC charging had no issue. It's unfortunate how the truck charges the 12v when parked. Other platforms do a better job maintaining the 12v so it doesn't sulfur up as fast.

 

[chl]

I was wondering about this. The other day AC charging would fail after 10 minutes or so. I checked 12v and it was low. Charged the 12v and AC charging had no issue. It's unfortunate how the truck charges the 12v when parked. Other platforms do a better job maintaining the 12v so it doesn't sulfur up as fast.

Yes, but actually some other brands have had 12v issue as well.

I also have a 2012 Leaf and it had the 12v battery go 'dead' when I was away on a 2 month vacation the first winter I had it (2012). The charge timers draw enough energy to drain it fairly quickly.

Since then I have had it on a maintainer - it is now over 14 years old and when I did a battery test, it still was at an 80% SOH. I did have to replenish with distilled water at least once - it's the original OEM flooded battery.

Now and then on the Leaf forum, I read reports of 12v battery failures, so it's a still a thing.

I read somewhere that Tesla got tired of replacing 12v batteries and changed their algorithm to maintain the 12v battery health better.

Besides sulfation because the battery is never really topped off by the truck to 100% there is also the possibility of high current damage since the truck apparently does not limit the charge current to an optimum level - there have been reports of swelling and venting as a result.

Got mine on a maintainer with an AGM mode, fingers crossed!

 

[flyct]

I read somewhere that Tesla got tired of replacing 12v batteries and changed their algorithm to maintain the 12v battery health better.

My 2023 Teslas had a 16 volt Li-ion Low Voltage battery. They got tired of replacing the 12 v lead acid battery and went to Li-ion.

https://www.autoevolution.com/news/...tage-battery-in-its-latest-models-249724.html
"Tesla replaced the lead-acid low-voltage battery in its vehicles with a Li-ion counterpart in 2021. However, these batteries used NMC chemistry, thus having a higher voltage of 16 volts. The newer Model 3 and Model Ys are now built with a new low-voltage battery that uses LFP cells to produce a lower voltage of 12.8 volts. "

 

[chl]

My 2023 Teslas had a 16 volt Li-ion Low Voltage battery. They got tired of replacing the 12 v lead acid battery and went to Li-ion.

https://www.autoevolution.com/news/...tage-battery-in-its-latest-models-249724.html
"Tesla replaced the lead-acid low-voltage battery in its vehicles with a Li-ion counterpart in 2021. However, these batteries used NMC chemistry, thus having a higher voltage of 16 volts. The newer Model 3 and Model Ys are now built with a new low-voltage battery that uses LFP cells to produce a lower voltage of 12.8 volts. "

Makes sense - Li could be longer lasting and easier to keep healthy.

Using a battery maintainer can prolong the lifespan of lead-acid batteries considerably,which is what I have done for years - my 2012 Leaf 12v flooded battery is now over 14 years old and at 80% SOH.

Keeping the depth of discharge to a minimum is key, and always topping off to 100% ensures that the depth of discharge is minimal and sulfates are driven off as completely as possible.

Since I have a lead-acid AGM battery in my Lightning I follow those best practices using a maintainer.

Time will tell how many years it lasts. Fingers crossed.

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