GenerLink Transfer Switch Compatible With 240V Pro Power Onboard Outlet -- Ford Announcement

[bmwhitetx]

You can just order the cable!

Here is the link: https://shopgenerlink.com/products/ford-vehicle-connector

Cool, thanks for the link.
But I'm not $100 curious since I have other means . Hoping a forum member who does buy it reports back though!

Sponsored

 

[flyct]

You can just order the cable!

Here is the link: https://shopgenerlink.com/products/ford-vehicle-connector

I just tried to order the Ford Cable using the link above. After all payment information was entered it wouldn’t accept the order with message: “GenerLink is not approved by your utility company”.

I wanted to order it so I could ohm it out to see if the ground was not connected, which made it special.

 

[galstaf]

Exactly what I have done. I had a generator port installed when we built my house and when I got my Lightning I sold my portable generator. Our master electrician (25yrs) has specialized in whole home generators for years and did exactly what you described. Have used it half a dozen times (once a couple days ago) and it works great. I did what you did, putting a big red sticker/note in the box to reconnect the ground if using any but my Lightning.

Are you physically pulling out a ground wire from a screw when you connect your lighting?

Would it not be easier to just install a switch that connects to ground for regular generators, and switches off the ground for connecting to the lightning?

Or a more automated option:
Add a second suitably long "Lightning Plug". When plugged into the truck, this cord could powers a 120VAC solenoid contactor that can activate a ground disconnection and simultaneously disconnect your generator plug in so you don't have live power on the other plug.
A lot of contactors allow several switching options and are pretty reasonably priced for switching high amperage circuits.

 

[galstaf]

I also made things easier by just using a standard 14-50 RV hookup outlet (or standard grounded dryer outlet) onto my truck. I have a bed box covering my factory outlets and often have a ton of crap in the bed so it's a pain to get to anyway.

The 50A style outlet (exterior grade covered) fits into one of my license plate lights without cutting into the truck plastic itself (who need 2 license plate lights? lol) and gives me an outlet on my bumper that is super handy for plugging a welder or whatever into without having to expose the finicky Ford outlets and their annoying magnetic sensors that trigger all kinds of dashboard spam. Plus they are less prone to damage from the cargo in the bed.


I never come close to drawing the maximum power the truck can supply and it is nice to have a standard outlet to power my welder and other 240V tools. Never had to plug it into the house yet but I have powered an RV off it for a couple of days. The heavy gauge RV cords are super tough and come in good usable lengths for those that have trouble getting close to their electrical panel.

 

[galstaf]

Another tip for those that do use the factory outlets (I do for 120VAC feeds to my tool chargers). You can put a small magnet on the outlet to the bottom right and it makes the truck think the outlet cover is down and won't bug you about it.

 

[TwentyTwentyThree]

This is an excellent setup.

 

[davehu]

Are you physically pulling out a ground wire from a screw when you connect your lighting?

Would it not be easier to just install a switch that connects to ground for regular generators, and switches off the ground for connecting to the lightning?

Or a more automated option:
Add a second suitably long "Lightning Plug". When plugged into the truck, this cord could powers a 120VAC solenoid contactor that can activate a ground disconnection and simultaneously disconnect your generator plug in so you don't have live power on the other plug.
A lot of contactors allow several switching options and are pretty reasonably priced for switching high amperage circuits.

no I left the ground on the inlet box unconnected. I just plug in and turn on pro power

 

[El Duderino]

I used a 50 amp rated toggle switch installed in my Generator inlet box to be able to switch the ground either closed or open depending on the bond status of the power source I am using. Label box with a label maker.

Amazon link to toggle:

https://a.co/d/04iaWUxx

I agree that this isn't as safe as using a whip with a lifted ground but I like the functionality better. YMMV.

Also patiently.waiting for the continuity test on the Generlink $100 Ford specific cable....

 

[Maineiac12]

I just tried to order the Ford Cable using the link above. After all payment information was entered it wouldn’t accept the order with message: “GenerLink is not approved by your utility company”.

I wanted to order it so I could ohm it out to see if the ground was not connected, which made it special.

Interesting…

My utility hasn’t approved it either, but 2 of the 3 power companies in my zip code have. I wonder if that’s why?

 

[UFLightning]

I just tried to order the Ford Cable using the link above. After all payment information was entered it wouldn’t accept the order with message: “GenerLink is not approved by your utility company”.

I wanted to order it so I could ohm it out to see if the ground was not connected, which made it special.

I was able to order the Ford Cable alone, said 1-2 weeks to ship but I'll warm up my multimeter...

 

[Dino]

Interesting - I wonder what happens when you throw an installed solar system in on top of all of this ...

I have a solar system 7kw and batteries. I contacted my utility (MTEMC) solar advisor which has also approved the Generlink connection, he said he would discuss my situation with their engineers and get back to me. He contacted me a couple of days later and said there would be no issues combining the three (solar, battery, & Generlink). I have not bought the Generlink yet though.

 

[Joe.....Montana]

I've got a Lightning and a house with grid-attached, no-battery-storage solar. I am working with a very knowledgeable electrician as we try to decide between a "traditional" generator hookup and this GenerLink Kit.

I called GenerLink and they said their product would work for me, so long as I pull the lever to cutoff the solar array before switching over. They also do sell their "Ford Connector" cable by itself, so I could buy/utilize that regardless of which solution we choose.

I am tempted by the modular, packaged GenerLink kit, as it seems a bit cleaner (no new holes in house or additional wiring in basement, no DIY cable, reversible) and does not seem much more expensive considering the overall cost of labor and materials.

I am grateful for all the discussion and information on this forum, as we decide between back-up power options. Thanks to everyone for sharing all this background.

I am in the exact same situation...grid tied with net meter and no batteries...that was my thought, if power goes out, kill solar power supply at master switch...please post what response(s) you receive...I was also going to reach out to my solar installer and utility.

 

[Joe.....Montana]

Also find it hilarious I received the email regarding GenerLink transfer and another one regarding a "new" Lightning in the last week...on a vehicle they discontinued.

 

[Maineiac12]

I am in the exact same situation...grid tied with net meter and no batteries...that was my thought, if power goes out, kill solar power supply at master switch...please post what response(s) you receive...I was also going to reach out to my solar installer and utility.

I’m in the same boat, minus the net metering and that’s how it works for me with my manual transfer switch.

 

[Lake Placid Lightning]

Need backup power? Automakers want you to look no further than their vehicles in your driveway

https://apnews.com/article/climate-...power-outage-c5e2945dbf973794de453efe3178a2dd

Drivers of the F-150 PowerBoost hybrid and F-150 Lightning electric pickup trucks can now plug in a one-foot long adapter to a 240-volt outlet onboard. That adapter — which Ford made with company Global Power Products — makes the vehicle compatible to plug into a longer, separate cable. That cable connects to a transfer switch installed directly on one’s electric meter.

Through the adapter and cable series, homeowners can connect their vehicle essentially right to their home’s breaker box. The homeowner simply turns on and off which breaker switches they want for which devices they want powered.

Sponsored