Comma AI self driver assistant

[UncleTony]

had to be a GEN2 cable. not all 3.1 will work.

3.1 gen 2 doesn't exist anymore.

Let's make it easy.

Get a USB c 3.2 cable.

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[Ajzride]

3.1 gen 2 doesn't exist anymore.

Let's make it easy.

Get a USB c 3.2 cable.

According to comma not all 3.2 are gen2 either. I don’t keep up with the committees. I’m just telling you guys what comma stresses on their discord.

 

[UncleTony]

According to comma not all 3.2 are gen2 either. I don’t keep up with the committees. I’m just telling you guys what comma stresses on their discord.

Im guessing they are trying to avoid people pointing fingers at them when their amazon cables don't work with the comma because they are missing the super speed pairs.

 

[UncleTony]

The issue is that a lot of companies will over sell their cables (Sometimes over build to compensate for other features). Its hard to say what will work and what won't.

The best way I can think to word it is, look for a cable that says its rated for USB C 3.2 Gen 2 (Leave me alone Alan ) and shows its rated for 20gbs. 20 gbps indicates it should have the 4 sets of super speed pairs.

Again, its difficult based on how sellers list their stuff to try to market it. Comma only cares about VBUS, Ground, SBU and the 4 super speed pairs, but USB cables can have lines removed or added and still be complaint with certain parts of the USB standards.

Going to add that most 3.1 cables are not going to have all 4 super speed pairs - so it will be easiest to look for a 3.2 gen 2 cable (3.2 gen 2x2 to be exact).

 

[oafydude28]

I picked up a new cable and took the truck for just a quick 1 mile drive at work. The service soon light came on and the one pedal was disabled. Everything else seems to work. I have a 42 mile drive home after work and will report how it goes. Looks good for the 25’s

 

[Ajzride]

I picked up a new cable and took the truck for just a quick 1 mile drive at work. The service soon light came on and the one pedal was disabled. Everything else seems to work. I have a 42 mile drive home after work and will report how it goes. Looks good for the 25’s

the service light is probably left over from the bad cable. Can clear with forscan. 1PD not working with OP long is normal I think. I only use Ford ACC so I’m not positive.

 

[UncleTony]

I picked up a new cable and took the truck for just a quick 1 mile drive at work. The service soon light came on and the one pedal was disabled. Everything else seems to work. I have a 42 mile drive home after work and will report how it goes. Looks good for the 25’s

Did you get an error saying 1 pedal was disabled?

Agreed with Alan, clear the DTC's and see what happens for the service light. The bad cable would have crashed comms between modules and is likely residual. It could also cause an error for 1 pedal if it is an actual error message and not just the indicator.

 

[UncleTony]

New BOM for those that are building your own breakouts.

1x - https://a.co/d/243xVLD
1x - https://a.co/d/1fZUaej

Install a single resistor between a10/a11.

Your board will be uni-directional, the rule of thumb is to put the "A" side towards the IPMA, but I have gotten a set with the connectors installed backwards, so just flip it end over end if you still get the errors.

 

[UncleTony]

Also, here is a 3D generated image of the final adapter to give you guys an idea of what you are ordering once available. Orientation will be marked on the casing.

 

[watts/up]

New BOM for those that are building your own breakouts.

1x - https://a.co/d/243xVLD
1x - https://a.co/d/1fZUaej

Install a single resistor between a10/a11.

Your board will be uni-directional, the rule of thumb is to put the "A" side towards the APIM, but I have gotten a set with the connectors installed backwards, so just flip it end over end if you still get the errors.

So this changed from a 120 to a 360 ohm resistor? Dang, just ordered the 120s last night.

 

[UncleTony]

So this changed from a 120 to a 360 ohm resistor? Dang, just ordered the 120s last night.

The previous design utilized 120Ω resistors, which are still fully functional. But, after further testing, I opted to switch to the 360Ω resistor. This better balances the total termination resistance across the system without adding an additional termination point, helping to keep the CAN bus resistance within specification and still resolve the reflections.

 

[watts/up]

Got it. Other than being unwieldy, any harm in doing three 120 in series or should I just order the 360? Assume this same resistance is reflected in the production version? Thanks for all your work on this.

 

[UncleTony]

Got it. Other than being unwieldy, any harm in doing three 120 in series or should I just order the 360? Assume this same resistance is reflected in the production version? Thanks for all your work on this.

If you ordered from Amazon, i would just return them and get the 360s personally. But if you dont mind putting the 120s in series, it will work as well.

The final design was switched to the 360.

 

[PJnc284]

Just as my 120s were delivered. probably not worth $6 to return them. Oh well. 360s can be here Sunday

 

[UncleTony]

Sorry guys, I honestly didn't think so many people were making their own. I had two people contact me today and yesterday so wanted to post the updated parts.

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