Tuning a Lightning

[WXman]

For decades we have purchased aftermarket tunes to give our trucks and cars more power and better drivability. It’s to the point where the OE’s are now cashing in on this by offering performance tunes for some of their vehicles. For example, the Ford Ranger Raptor and Bronco Raptor have tunes you can get directly from Ford to crank up the power.

Here’s a thought that I’ve had with this Lightning: Why not do the opposite? Very few people need 580 horsepower/775 lb.ft. of torque in a 1/2 ton truck. What if Ford offered a tune for the Lightning that would dial back the power and extend the range? What if you could give up 150 horsepower and gain 75 miles of range or something similar? Would you go for that?

I think I would. I think I’d be happy with a 400 HP truck that gets 400 miles of range. That would be more useful to me.

I wonder if @Ford Motor Company has ever considered this?

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[RickLightning]

To get less torque and HP with the Lightning, you just need to follow these instructions carefully:

1) Press lightly on the accelerator.
2) Come off the accelerator to coast to a stop.

There is no need for a tune.

 

[Firn]

No efficiency to be gained by turning down the power rating. The motors and electronics are as efficient as they are, thats mechanical and won't be changed by limiting the amount of power available.

 

[Athrun88]

My 'tune' is also my right foot. I'd much rather have a higher ceiling than a detune robbing me of what I originally paid for.

 

[RLXXI]

Nahh, I'll just charge more often if needed. I like the power!!

Besides, the main reason Ford or any other oe reduces the power in an ICE vehicle is to comply with cafe rules. They've complied to make their obligation on the Monroney. Adding it back after a sale doesn't count.

 

[I <3 My Lightning]

You are looking to cut the power and I want to see the opposite. I want to see what it really could do.

If you look at any ev manufacturers actual efficiency of a particular model line where the body, frame, and battery is the same, the main difference comes down to mechanical disconnect of the front motor of an AWD system, unsprung weight of tire/wheel configuration, the weight/size/power delivery of the front motor in an AWD system, or simply reducing weight and energy needs to keep a front motor online by eliminating it all together and just having a RWD.

And if Ford really could gain 75 real world miles by cutting 150hp by a flick of a switch, it would have been offered and it would have been a true eco mode.

You want better efficiency, do everything one would do with an ice... Pretend you have an egg between your foot and the accelerator, get up to highway speed as fast and as safe as possible, follow ALL posted speed limits.

Now my jerk side would say you bought a lightning, not a mild timid sparky....

 

[ClevelandBeemer]

It would be cool to add more power. In order to add efficiency Ford needs to do 2 things.

1. Make the truck more aerodynamic. Both the Rivian R1T and the GM EV trucks have significantly less drag.

2. Add a clutch disconnect to one of the axles. That way on the highway one of the motors can be completely shut off.

 

[flux capacitor]

Just put the truck in valet mode. You will definitely add more miles, but you will not go very fast. You might have to drive with your safety lights on all the time.

 

[On the Road with Ralph]

To get less torque and HP with the Lightning, you just need to follow these instructions carefully:

1) Press lightly on the accelerator.
2) Come off the accelerator to coast to a stop.

There is no need for a tune.

This also does wonders for tire life.

Related note: Since switching to 1-pedal mode, I have made a “game” of gauging when to let off the pedal to allow the Lightning to smoothly reduce speed and bring the truck to a stop. I think Ford did a remarkably good job of crafting the regen curve.

 

[WXman]

To get less torque and HP with the Lightning, you just need to follow these instructions carefully:

1) Press lightly on the accelerator.
2) Come off the accelerator to coast to a stop.

There is no need for a tune.

Could say the exact same thing for any ICE vehicle.

I still say an electric system, if tuned to "call for" less overall power, will therefore consume less overall power.

 

[swajames]

Ford offers a performance tune for the Mach E that increases power and performance and, rumor has it, has considered offering something similar for Lightning, If more power and performance can be uncorked through software only then by definition the standard offering must logically be at least somewhat "detuned", although yes, detuning is basically your right foot. And count me in if the rumors were correct.

 

[I <3 My Lightning]

I still say an electric system, if tuned to "call for" less overall power, will therefore consume less overall power.

Technically you are not wrong but you can call for less power with your foot, no heat, the location on earth, ect.

What you save in having to cool the drivetrain and battery may be lost to driving conditions and getting the battery up to temp or cooled in so called colder/hotter climates. The balance of driving conditions across the market is the hurdle.

Now if I could choose a small distance city driving function and/or had the option of continued reduced power in cold weather instead of the system trying to fully heat the battery unnecessarily as fast as possible for my short work commute, I would be all for it.

And I will quote myself in saying no one needs an EV, it's a want. And honestly I don't want to go back to ICE. But just like adding solar to my house years ago, with the foresight of EVs one day and essentially doubling the pv system capacity of what was needed back then... I made every energy efficient upgrade possible over time with it. Windows, doors, more attic insulation, air gap sealing, higher energy efficient HVAC and hot water, LED bulbs and light fixture ECT. It took a lot of time, education and money to save a lot of money, but after 6 years the system has paid for itself and we don't use gasoline for driving and lawn equipment... And we have two evs that can perform VTL.

Oh and doing everything possible to be as efficient with EVs... I insulated and gap sealed our attached garage with rockwool, included a new insulated steel no sidelight garage side entry door, clopay R18.5 overhead door, LED bulbs, and a Samsung cold weather 10k btu mini split... even if I didn't have the EVs that improvement improved the house building envelope and helps with heating and cooling....

 

[proprepper]

I "tuned" my 2001 quad cab V8 dakota with my foot. I gained between 50-75 miles in range per tank !

 

[I <3 My Lightning]

Ford offers a performance tune for the Mach E that increases power and performance and, rumor has it, has considered offering something similar for Lightning, If more power and performance can be uncorked through software only then by definition the standard offering must logically be at least somewhat "detuned", although yes, detuning is basically your right foot. And count me in if the rumors were correct.

All EVs are detuned. It's about the safety, warranty costs and functionality in all weather conditions for long periods of driving time... GM has their wide open watts, Kia has their GT mode, Tesla, ludicrous. All came with the vehicle that you purchased and all temporarily accessable. All software locked... Hence why just I asked Big Bri not AI to show what the no holds bar testing was of the lightning. I know it probably could pull closer to 3s 0-60 with the correct tires and not limited power. They can afford to destroy a gear, cog, bearing, motor or two...

 

[Firn]

I still say an electric system, if tuned to "call for" less overall power, will therefore consume less overall power.

Thats not how that works.

Yes, you could deliver less power, but to accelerate to the same speed it would take longer, so the end effect is the same. And thats only assuming you use full available power to accelerate every single time. There is driveline efficiency, but EVs have less efficiency loss when pressed hard than ICE motors due, aka accelerating hard and accelerating soft consume closer to the same energy than in ICE. This is also simply controlled by your right foot.

Acceleration energy loss is also minimal compared to energy consumed at steady high speed (where range typically matters). The only energy you are consuming when cruising is how much it takes to push through the air and some driveline losses. So make 1000hp, or 100hp, you are still only consuming say "50hp" to maintain speed

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