Comma AI self driver assistant

[Ajzride]

Typed the message below before I got caught up on the thread:
I experienced the same AC issue about 10 days ago. (Only about four days after installing) I am usually parked in a garage so even though I have a slide mount, I had forgotten to remove it and it overheated. I took it down to let it cool. Drove home that day without it mounted and had no AC. Since then, I get functioning AC about one in ten trips. Because I occasionally get AC, I was about to schedule a service to see if I actually had an issue with my AC. I decided to come back here and see how the progress of UncleTony's hardware fix was coming along. I'm so relieved that someone else is having the issue.

Not sure if it's related but, today on the way home the 3x crashed during the trip. It said likely faulty cable. When it restarted, it was in the settings page, or black screen. If I tap the screen, it shows me the menu / ride info pages - no camera. I was about to unplug the harness and go back to factory to test if the AC malfunction was related but, w/ my meat sticks, it's really hard to get that connecter back into the module - GLAD I came back to see the updated thread.

I don't have Forscan - Can any link me to what I need? Seems like I should have that tool at the ready if I'm going to be hanging out with you guys. I've googled it but, that's a rabbit hole.


My setup:
'24 Lariat. 3x purchased early July. Ford harness from Comma. The mirror mount version of AZRide's slide mount. (It's a nice idea but it's way to bouncy. Puts a lot of stress on the 3D print even with ASA... I'm going to switch to his original stick-on design) I am running the USB cable into the mount - no hardware correction inline. (Sending DM to UncleTony soon)

Lastly:
Also want to throw my appreciation in as well... for what it's worth. There are a couple of you guys doing a lot of work for the rest of us. I see you. It's appreciated.

-Matt

Getting the breakout board is priority #1, then we can diagnose the bad cable. As Uncle Tony noted, there have been some bad couplers sent out by Amazon recently, so that is likely to be the issue. I can't remmember if you printed your own or I shipped you one, but since we all get our couplers from the same place, a bad batch affects us all. I've had 2 or 3 I tested on my truck and shipped, and then they became problematic once they heated up on the windshield. I've had other in service for over a year in TX and AZ heat, so I think it's just a bad batch.

Once you get a coupler we can systematicly work through what is causing the bad cable message.

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[UncleTony]

Getting the breakout board is priority #1, then we can diagnose the bad cable. As Uncle Tony noted, there have been some bad couplers sent out by Amazon recently, so that is likely to be the issue. I can't remmember if you printed your own or I shipped you one, but since we all get our couplers from the same place, a bad batch affects us all. I've had 2 or 3 I tested on my truck and shipped, and then they became problematic once they heated up on the windshield. I've had other in service for over a year in TX and AZ heat, so I think it's just a bad batch.

Once you get a coupler we can systematicly work through what is causing the bad cable message.

I didn't intend to place blame, just wanted to mention that the reflections don't usually cause the cable message. Your stuff is great outside of the bad batch you got, which isn't on you at all.

 

[Lawrence KB5ZZB]

i had noticed that in another application I had some couplers I had to turn over 180 dg across the long side to pass power. was using for a extender for a battery vest.....I know Texas! but it get cold here too

 

[UncleTony]

i had noticed that in another application I had some couplers I had to turn over 180 dg across the long side to pass power. was using for a extender for a battery vest.....I know Texas! but it get cold here too

USB C by design is agnostic to orientation (Even with the way comma uses it). We aren't interrupting any passthrough by losing the resistor, but losing the resistor orientation is what causes the reflections to return as the bus that needs to be corrected is no longer being corrected.

In less words, the only reason the orientation matters is because of the resistor being adding to it.

 

[Lawrence KB5ZZB]

USB C by design is agnostic to orientation (Even with the way comma uses it). We aren't interrupting any passthrough by losing the resistor, but losing the resistor orientation is what causes the reflections to return as the bus that needs to be corrected is no longer being corrected.

In less words, the only reason the orientation matters is because of the resistor being adding to it.

Good Morning Uncle Tony
I was just saying I got some problematic usb c couplers in. I had a usb c cable with a power indication / usage display and it would fail to pass power unless i had the coupler inline a certain way. I thought it was strange but just went with it.

 

[UncleTony]

Good Morning Uncle Tony
I was just saying I got some problematic usb c couplers in. I had a usb c cable with a power indication / usage display and it would fail to pass power unless i had the coupler inline a certain way. I thought it was strange but just went with it.

I gotcha. I thought you were referring to the vast difference in issues we've seen on the lightning.

 

[Rosinante]

Tuning SOS!

Any suggestions on the best tuning parameters to remove or severely reduce ping-pong(ing)?. I have been messing with the tuning for the last 4 days and still couldn’t get it to stay in center, at least for more than a mile. Curves are no issue; tangents ARE the worst. Any help, as always is GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Also, is it possible to use Ford native LKA/ACC and JUST Comma’s vision-base driver monitor? Prior to adding C3x, I weighted the steering wheel to spoof it and I find Fords LKA to be very great at lane centering.

Basically, I was looking for another option instead of using weights on the steering wheel, so enter Comma!

PS: OCD not rule out!

23 XLT STD RG, all stock except DIY ACC.

 

[Ajzride]

Tuning SOS!

Any suggestions on the best tuning parameters to remove or severely reduce ping-pong(ing)?. I have been messing with the tuning for the last 4 days and still couldn’t get it to stay in center, at least for more than a mile. Curves are no issue; tangents ARE the worst. Any help, as always is GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Also, is it possible to use Ford native LKA/ACC and JUST Comma’s vision-base driver monitor? Prior to adding C3x, I weighted the steering wheel to spoof it and I find Fords LKA to be very great at lane centering.

Basically, I was looking for another option instead of using weights on the steering wheel, so enter Comma!

PS: OCD not rule out!

23 XLT STD RG, all stock except DIY ACC.

Probably best to ask for tuning help in the BluePilot thread. Post seven has guidelines on what information to share so that you get meaningful advice.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...fork-for-comma3x-openpilot.24241/#post-457709


I can write a branch that would make Ford LCA hands free, but you would like it a lot less than you think. It drops out all the time, and after almost 70K miles with comma, I can tell you once tuned it’s actually better than ford with less ping pong. I had to run on BlueCruise for a few hours last week and was annoyed the whole time by the ping pong.

 

[PJnc284]

yeah mine seems to get a case of the drunks about half the time on 2.1 using settings I found on here. Will be going fine and then start getting more and more off. Will hopefully have a bit more time this weekend to tweak some of the settings.

 

[Ajzride]

yeah mine seems to get a case of the drunks about half the time on 2.1 using settings I found on here. Will be going fine and then start getting more and more off. Will hopefully have a bit more time this weekend to tweak some of the settings.

You can always recalibrate and see if that helps.

 

[PJnc284]

yeah I've recalibrated a few times usually after making the changes. My drives have only been short (5-10 miles) on city streets but have a 140 mile drive each way (primarily 2 lane 55mph highway) this weekend so will get to see more on how it behaves then. Steering wheel seems kind of busy so far. Right now I'm at
Predictive Curvature Blend Ratio .75 (been from .6-.8 which seems to be what most like)
Path Angle Amplitude 2
Path Angle In-Curve Reduction .76

 

[Ajzride]

Try taking predictive curvature blend ratio down as low as 0.40. Especially if you are on FoF model

 

[Ajzride]

3.1 will have a twitchy wheel. 4.0 should address it. Maybe this weekend it will be ready.

 

[Ajzride]

yeah I've recalibrated a few times usually after making the changes. My drives have only been short (5-10 miles) on city streets but have a 140 mile drive each way (primarily 2 lane 55mph highway) this weekend so will get to see more on how it behaves then. Steering wheel seems kind of busy so far. Right now I'm at
Predictive Curvature Blend Ratio .75 (been from .6-.8 which seems to be what most like)
Path Angle Amplitude 2
Path Angle In-Curve Reduction .76

The forum kept timing out and glitching up on me earlier.

If you are on 3.1, it will be a little twitchy, this is due to the varaible lag time comma introduced. But in general I would go less PC, down to 0.4-0.6 and less path amplitude, down to 1.2-1.6.

 

[PJnc284]

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