Lightning powering house -

[Texdan]

Assuming it was wired correctly, yes no changes required.

One thing we have noticed (by we I mean folks who have used the GENERAC transfer switches with the Lightning) is that if there is utility power being supplied to the GENERAC via the panel 50A breaker when making the switch to or from the Lightning, the Lightning will detect a ground fault and cut off the output at the 240V outlet - seems to be a short spike on connection to the Lightning under that scenario.

You can see it at the end of this video:


It does not mean there is a wiring error, although a wiring error could cause a real ground fault, so it can be a bit disconcerting - caused me to double check all my wiring for any errors, like picking the wrong neutral to transfer.

All wired correctly as my PB has run the house successfully multiple times- my question simply is the LIGHTNING 30A 240V connection same as my PB 30A 240V connection? Most info talks about a special LIGHTNING interface, which someone estimated would run about $7-13,000, which I do not want to set up a 3rd configuration.

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[chl]

All wired correctly as my PB has run the house successfully multiple times- my question simply is the LIGHTNING 30A 240V connection same as my PB 30A 240V connection? Most info talks about a special LIGHTNING interface, which someone estimated would run about $7-13,000, which I do not want to set up a 3rd configuration.

Oh, ok...
Yes, should be if it is a standard plug like this:

 

[Texdan]

Oh, ok...
Yes, should be if it is a standard plug like this:

Yes - thats same plug on my PB - thanks!

 

[Runaway Tractor]

The $10,000 boondoggle is Ford's defunct Home Integration System (HIS). It is a vehicle-to-home (V2H) system that uses the Ford Charge Station Pro, an external inverter, and several other components. It's supposed to be automatic. It was a total flop. It doesn't work. It has multiple flaws. Ford, SunRun, and Siemens basically threw up their arms and walked away from it totally screwing customers who bought it. You can read all about this abysmal failure in many threads here concluding with wanting to sue Ford.

Using the 30 amp pro power as you're doing is the best way. And actually works.

 

[kstype]

Yes - thats same plug on my PB - thanks!

Yes - in fact I used the identical cable from my generator to use Pro Power out the back… now I just need to get my electrician to come back install an A/B switch and run a port to the garage - that way I could plug the truck in in the garage and if I ever needed to switch over to the generator outside…

 

[Runaway Tractor]

Yes - in fact I used the identical cable from my generator to use Pro Power out the back… now I just need to get my electrician to come back install an A/B switch and run a port to the garage - that way I could plug the truck in in the garage and if I ever needed to switch over to the generator outside…

I did exactly this. https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...panel-conduit-and-my-entire-body-hurts.23048/

Here's your double throw manual transfer switch. Unlikely you will find anything less expensive that isn't chinesium garbage that will melt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KNXJXE

 

[kstype]

I did exactly this. https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...panel-conduit-and-my-entire-body-hurts.23048/

Here's your double throw manual transfer switch. Unlikely you will find anything less expensive that isn't chinesium garbage that will melt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KNXJXE

Fantastic information - thank you!

 

[Texdan]

Yes - in fact I used the identical cable from my generator to use Pro Power out the back… now I just need to get my electrician to come back install an A/B switch and run a port to the garage - that way I could plug the truck in in the garage and if I ever needed to switch over to the generator outside…

In lieu of a switch (which I was unaware of) heres my setup - I've got about $3700 invested in:
1- GENERAC switch = $550
2- Switch install = $1500
3- Separate receptacle to power entire panel = $1000
4- 2 ICM softstarts on 2 & 4 ton AC units = $650 ($500 + $75 x 2 for install)

 

[Runaway Tractor]

I too use a soft start on my 3.5T heat pump. No longer trips the truck's overload, and doesn't make my portable generator beg for mercy.

 

[Texdan]

OK - now that I know Lightning and PB can use same setup (GENERAC 6854 transfer switch)

HOW LONG will the LIGHTNING inverter last running the select circuits?

I know it will be a range, but what is the range?

I believe my load averages only about 2600-3000 watts,
if someone can analyze and calculate approximate inverter effective time.

 

[HI Zeus]

OK - now that I know Lightning and PB can use same setup (GENERAC 6854 transfer switch)

HOW LONG will the LIGHTNING inverter last running the select circuits?

I know it will be a range, but what is the range?

I believe my load averages only about 2600-3000 watts,
if someone can analyze and calculate approximate inverter effective time.

I believe you can just divide the battery pack size, say 131kWh by the hourly load, say 3000W or 3kWh to get your answer (43hrs) or 50hrs for 2600w.

 

[HI Zeus]

@Runaway Tractor @chl seems like the two of you can give me a trustworthy answer:

What would be the least expensive approach to getting the max home energy out of my 2023 with ER and Tow package (9.6kW).

I'm thinking two 30amp Generac (or similar) switch setups with select breakers for the priority home items.

One switch for the 240V 30amp bed plug (7.2kW inverter), and a 2nd for the frunk/cab (2.4kW inverter) utilizing the setup described in the link below to create a 2nd 240V 30 amp plug.

https://www.[banned site]/threads/more-240v-propower-than-you-may-have-thought-success.5021/

Does that seem like the best inexpensive "to code" route?

 

[Texdan]

I believe you can just divide the battery pack size, say 131kWh by the hourly load, say 3000W or 3kWh to get your answer (43hrs) or 50hrs for 2600w.

Wow - that is way longer than I thought! Great info, thank you!

 

[chl]

@Runaway Tractor @chl seems like the two of you can give me a trustworthy answer:

What would be the least expensive approach to getting the max home energy out of my 2023 with ER and Tow package (9.6kW).

I'm thinking two 30amp Generac (or similar) switch setups with select breakers for the priority home items.

One switch for the 240V 30amp bed plug (7.2kW inverter), and a 2nd for the frunk/cab (2.4kW inverter) utilizing the setup described in the link below to create a 2nd 240V 30 amp plug.

https://www.[banned site]/threads/more-240v-propower-than-you-may-have-thought-success.5021/

Does that seem like the best inexpensive "to code" route?

Assuming you would not try to combine the outputs, that is an idea.

One thing to think about/keep in mind, is keeping the two inverter outputs completely separate/isolated because they are NOT in sync.

According to forum posts, they are un-synchronized inverters, so you'd have big problems if somewhere in your proposed system they were combined. Voltages would combine and subtract and vary from the 120V or 240V you want for your circuits.

Actually, when you look at the screen for the PPOB 240V output while powering the house, you will see that output is made from two 120V inverters synchronized to provide the desired output.
The screen will show you how much power is being used by each leg.

I was a bit surprised to see that I was using just about 1/3 of the 7200 watts with all 10 of my transferred circuits on, I hadn't calculated the loads on each circuit before hand.

I could probably have run them on the 2.4kW output, and use the 7.2kW for my AC (with a soft starter to slow the inrush current).

So I actually had that same idea and am pondering it myself.

 

[chl]

OK - now that I know Lightning and PB can use same setup (GENERAC 6854 transfer switch)

HOW LONG will the LIGHTNING inverter last running the select circuits?

I know it will be a range, but what is the range?

I believe my load averages only about 2600-3000 watts,
if someone can analyze and calculate approximate inverter effective time.

Several people have done tests to estimate it.
I only have an SR battery and I usually charge to 80%, before a coming hurricane remnant I'd charge to 90%.
I ran most of my circuits on the 30A PPOB outlet and looked at the truck screen which shows the power consumption on each leg. One leg was using 900 watts the other about 1100 watts if I remember correctly, which was with most things on, not the coffee pot or the microwave at the time I was testing.

The microwave I have is a 1000 watt microwave the coffee pot is a small one at 400 watts. They would not be running a long time, like the computer and lights might be.

So plenty of head room on the 7.2kW output.

Since you can monitor the use on the truck screen you could remove circuits as needed by flipping the transfer switch breaker to make the backup last longer.

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