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Lightning Rod

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Happy to share!

I think that’s it. Double check the description/literature to make sure it says “for GFCI generators” or “neutral switching”… can always look up the item’s manual on Generac’s website to double check.



I'm going to send this thread to my electrician.

Thanks so much.:)
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chl

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I successfully sent power back into my home from the 240V/30A Pro Power outlet in the bed, the truck did not trip. I had an electrician install a Reliance LinkX neutral-switching transfer switch for GFCI generators, moved most of my home’s essential circuits into the transfer switch… tested it out by connecting my Lightning to the inlet, cut off utility power, manually turned on the transfer switch, and it worked like a charm!

This is basically the simplest and cheapest solution to power your house within code using the truck’s 240V bed outlet… no “suicide cord” and no questionable ground or neutral switch on the inlet. I won’t say what the cost (since there are so many variables to each installation) but it was a fraction of the reported cost of the Intelligent Backup Power system.

Please note: You have to use a transfer switch specifically designed for GFCI (neutral-bonded) generators. A normal transfer switch for backup generators will not work because of the neutral-switching issue.

30 amp generator cord connected to the Lightning:
AF596667-F15F-4D03-88BC-06403F46ACBC.jpeg


Generator cord inlet’ed to the transfer switch:
3EAE3556-075E-4F45-AB02-7A2F945FD48D.jpeg


The Reliance neutral-switching transfer stitch (it switches off one of the neutrals in the loop so you don’t get the fault in the truck):
182C948A-3413-453E-9E90-BE85CB370B34.jpeg


Pro Power Onboard powering the circuits in the transfer switch… only drew about 500W:
139A3F17-4B69-4145-9AAA-A635EC40388F.jpeg


Parts list:
  • 30 amp L14-30P/R generator cord
  • 30 amp generator inlet
  • Reliance XRK0303D 30 amp transfer switch for GFCI generators (updated version of the XRC3030D), see page 50 of the Reliance parts catalog https://api.reliancecontrols.com/media/DAFD6723826113254930/DAFL6723827471620578.pdf. You can order through local electric supplier.
    • Generac HomeLink 6852 is an equivalent 30 amp neutral-switching transfer switch for GFCI generators (can order through electric supplier, big box home improvement stores, or online).
  • A licensed, insured electrician to install

(I am not an electrician and this post is not advice or a “how to”… just sharing what I did, install at your own risk. Please consult a licensed electrician if you’d like to consider this option.)
Yes, good job done correctly to code.

It seems most if not all new generators are neutral-bonded so unless the transfer switch is an older model it has be so designed. If you have an older transfer switch (I do) then it must be replaced to avoid the tripping problem.

I read some posts here and elsewhere that described how their electrician or a DIY'er simply did not connect the neutral wire in the 4 prong outlet, which is a big no-no and would NOT pass inspection, so they could use their old transfer switch.

So, people should double-check that their electrician knows what he/she is doing.

Over the years I have seen some licensed electricians make some bad mistakes - one wired our sheds such that 240v was sent to the 120v outlets on the wall (he switched the neutral and the ground wires)! Fried a drill before I figured out what he had done wrong. That same electrician hammered in wire staples so hard they damaged some of the wire which showed up years later when an outlet stopped working - no hot connection - I had to pull dry wall off to find the point of failure and put in a splice. The electrical contractor had not had the local county inspections done either, which would have caught the errors (in theory).

I am an MSEE with over 30 years experience, but you should insist on and make sure there is a county or city inspection done!
 
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