How do you know HVB cooling system is working?

[ChewieArmstrong]

I'm also concerned that the HVB cooling isn't working in my truck (22 ER Max Tow Lariat). I noticed strange charging behavior this weekend thanks to the charging curve graph displays at the new IONNA rechargeries. I plugged in my ODB bluetooth reader to check temps and things looked pretty toasty to me. I also snapped a picture of the IC after disconnecting the truck, and the battery temp gauge was almost to the top end of the "normal" region. I'm in the gulf south so ambient temperatures are beginning to hang out above 90F.

I noticed similar behavior (though not quite as extreme) last summer and had my local dealership investigate. They reported no faults, topped up the expansion reservoir, and said the truck was fine. If this is an actual problem (which I think it is), do you guys have any guidance on what to tell the dealer?

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[Firn]

I'm also concerned that the HVB cooling isn't working in my truck (22 ER Max Tow Lariat). I noticed strange charging behavior this weekend thanks to the charging curve graph displays at the new IONNA rechargeries. I plugged in my ODB bluetooth reader to check temps and things looked pretty toasty to me. I also snapped a picture of the IC after disconnecting the truck, and the battery temp gauge was almost to the top end of the "normal" region. I'm in the gulf south so ambient temperatures are beginning to hang out above 90F.

I noticed similar behavior (though not quite as extreme) last summer and had my local dealership investigate. They reported no faults, topped up the expansion reservoir, and said the truck was fine. If this is an actual problem (which I think it is), do you guys have any guidance on what to tell the dealer?

That is pretty toasty. What are your ambient temps?

That is high but without any cooling i think it would be way over that (or throw an error to be honest).

I also suggest monitoring the HVAC current PID to see how hard your cooling system is working. There has to be a max current limit and I believe this is limiting cooling capacity and leading to higher temps. The big one there is the inlet coolant temp, that should be lower if it wasn't heat saturated.

 

[Maxx]

Inlet temp is the PID to monitor to determine if the cooling system is working. I have seen that PID actively change temp to cool the battery, specifically when fast charging it will drop to around 60F and stay there. It's funny because you can tell Ford uses Celsius because the temps in F are always odd ball temps but correlate to an exact temp in C, like the battery cooling in normal mode at 104f, which is 40c.

The system will cool down to 104 in normal mode, 86 in Sport mode, and when DCFC inlet temp stays right around 60f regardless of battery temp. I verified the dcfc inlet temp by building a secondary chiller, even when running the seconday chiller on the main radiator inlet still only dropped to 60, but the trucks AC energy consumption dropped.

Very helpful. thank you.

 

[ChewieArmstrong]

That is pretty toasty. What are your ambient temps?

That is high but without any cooling i think it would be way over that (or throw an error to be honest).

I also suggest monitoring the HVAC current PID to see how hard your cooling system is working. There has to be a max current limit and I believe this is limiting cooling capacity and leading to higher temps. The big one there is the inlet coolant temp, that should be lower if it wasn't heat saturated.

I see an entry called "HVB Coolant heater" and there's one for the cabin AC. The "heater" one always shows 0 kW, and "ACCC" shows 0 amps when I turn off cabin AC. Is there another one I'm missing that I should be monitoring?

When I got in the truck this morning, battery temps were ~92F after overnight AC charging. I noticed my Tesla wall connector flashing red and the charge rate was derated. Searching attributed this to temperature, but I wasn't clear on if that could be triggered by the vehicle. Anyway, I decided to put the truck in Sport mode to see if it would attempt to cool. Once I got moving down the road, the lowest I saw the inlet temp get to was ~78F. If I remember right, since I noticed the higher battery gauge last year, I've never seen the inlet below about ~75F unless ambient was at that temperature or lower. Ambient was in the low 80s this morning.

 

[3rdgenfan]

I'm also concerned that the HVB cooling isn't working in my truck (22 ER Max Tow Lariat). I noticed strange charging behavior this weekend thanks to the charging curve graph displays at the new IONNA rechargeries. I plugged in my ODB bluetooth reader to check temps and things looked pretty toasty to me. I also snapped a picture of the IC after disconnecting the truck, and the battery temp gauge was almost to the top end of the "normal" region. I'm in the gulf south so ambient temperatures are beginning to hang out above 90F.

I noticed similar behavior (though not quite as extreme) last summer and had my local dealership investigate. They reported no faults, topped up the expansion reservoir, and said the truck was fine. If this is an actual problem (which I think it is), do you guys have any guidance on what to tell the dealer?

I've had 4 back to back DCFC sessions on a road trip around the same ambient temperature and the battery temps never got that high.

 

[TaxmanHog]

I see an entry called "HVB Coolant heater" and there's one for the cabin AC. The "heater" one always shows 0 kW, and "ACCC" shows 0 amps when I turn off cabin AC. Is there another one I'm missing that I should be monitoring?

When I got in the truck this morning, battery temps were ~92F after overnight AC charging. I noticed my Tesla wall connector flashing red and the charge rate was derated. Searching attributed this to temperature, but I wasn't clear on if that could be triggered by the vehicle. Anyway, I decided to put the truck in Sport mode to see if it would attempt to cool. Once I got moving down the road, the lowest I saw the inlet temp get to was ~78F. If I remember right, since I noticed the higher battery gauge last year, I've never seen the inlet below about ~75F unless ambient was at that temperature or lower. Ambient was in the low 80s this morning.

Does your truck have Max Tow?

If it does, then there is a second AC compressor dedicated exclusively to cooling the battery, while the cabin AC is exclusively for the cabin.

I don't know what the second AC PID is, possibly another member has this information.

 

[Maxx]

Here are my current temp page sensors. I going to replace the thee with no readings. Any suggestions for sensors that may be relevant to this thread?

 

[Firn]

I see an entry called "HVB Coolant heater" and there's one for the cabin AC. The "heater" one always shows 0 kW, and "ACCC" shows 0 amps when I turn off cabin AC. Is there another one I'm missing that I should be monitoring?

When I got in the truck this morning, battery temps were ~92F after overnight AC charging. I noticed my Tesla wall connector flashing red and the charge rate was derated. Searching attributed this to temperature, but I wasn't clear on if that could be triggered by the vehicle. Anyway, I decided to put the truck in Sport mode to see if it would attempt to cool. Once I got moving down the road, the lowest I saw the inlet temp get to was ~78F. If I remember right, since I noticed the higher battery gauge last year, I've never seen the inlet below about ~75F unless ambient was at that temperature or lower. Ambient was in the low 80s this morning.

I believe that ACCC is compressor current. In a non-maxtow truck the cabin AC is the same unit that cools the battery. If that is the PID (provided my memory is correct and it isn't a different one) then you can verify by plugging in for a DCFC session and watching consumption.

As I said before inlet temp when DCFC should go to around 60f, at least early in the session. At least that is what I have observed when monitoring the PIDs in the few attempts I did while monitoring. If it rises from there it is either a problem with the cooling system or the cooling system simply doesn't have the capacity and is getting heat soaked.

The other thing to consider is a clogged radiator and/or slow or damaged fan

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