Walk Away Locks / App open killing 12V battery.

[Dubnicks55]

I’ve recently been having 12V battery issues, and I’m pretty sure I have it diagnosed down to the walk away lock feature and the app open and running. A close friend who works for Toyota told me that they frequent have issues with 12V batteries going dead due to computers turn their cars on and off, but customers don’t believe them when their diagnosis is closing the app at home or turning on a proximity to home where the computers don’t engage if at that location.

my house is configured in a way where my master bedroom is directly above my garage and the family room is on the same level as the garage and they share a wall. Ever since I got the walk away lock update, I would frequently get ford app alerts about it engaging as I walked around in my house, or working in the garage, etc… I’ve had two instances of my 12V being dead or my truck throwing HVB and every other alarm and not letting me drive. My portable jump pack has sure come in handy.

Ever since I disabled the walk away lock feature, and started closing the app at home my issues have disappeared!

Wanted to drop the info in a post in case others are having similar issues. I didn’t see another post, but I also didn’t look too hard since I was looking on mobile.

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[Lightning Rod]

My truck is activated as i walk around too, but my battery seems fine. It might be that your 12v battery is on its last leg. Might be time to replace it.

 

[Dubnicks55]

My truck is activated as i walk around too, but my battery seems fine. It might be that your 12v battery is on its last leg. Might be time to replace it.

thanks. I’ll get it tested and replace if needed. You’re probably right.

 

[Tfarrell73]

Half my house is in BT range of truck. No 12v issues with WAL. Did have 12v issues when I forgot to disconnect carscanner after shutting down truck

 

[TaxmanHog]

I turned off the welcome lighting feature to lessen the load on my LVB, only time I had issues was when the truck was parked close to the house.

When I'm done driving for the day she is parked in a detached garage ~75 feet from my household movements, so I have that advantage over your situation of being right on top of the truck.

 

[Adventureboy]

No issues with WAL but I also turned off approach lighting to keep the power boards from flapping like a dying duck every time I walked by. Would be nice to have the boards separated from the approach lighting.
If you are on the original 12v battery, it is probably tired. That small battery takes a daily beating when you are walking by it regularly as it lights up modules just to get ready in case you might open the door even if approach lighting is turned off. I'm already on my second battery but I've never needed to use my jump pack.

 

[tubby]

Talk to your dealer on the 12v battery issue. They can bring up all the stats using Ford's integrated diagnostic system (IDS) and in your case, the stat that shows the voltage, capacity, and sulfation levels of the 12V battery. IOW, they can easily tell if it needs to be replaced.

 

[chl]

Just a suggestion if you don't want to disable the WAL : put your key FOB inside a radio-proof pouch - aluminum foil is very effective for this if you don't want to buy one from a vendor. When you WANT WAL, remove it from the foil.

Also has the effect of protecting your from someone who may capture your FOB signals and follow you home then came back at night and opened or even stole your car - happened to a neighbor some a year or two ago.

How a relay attack works

1. Thief 1 captures the fob's signal. A thief holding a radio transmitter stands near a home or office where they know the key fob is located. This device captures the low-power radio frequency (RF) signal that many fobs constantly emit, even when the owner isn't pressing a button. The signal can be picked up through doors, walls, and windows.
2. The signal is relayed and amplified. The transmitter amplifies the captured signal and relays it over a distance to a second thief.
3. Thief 2 receives the signal. An accomplice with a second device stands near the car. Their device receives the amplified signal, making the vehicle's onboard computer think the actual key fob is nearby.
4. The car unlocks and starts. The car then automatically unlocks its doors and allows the thief to start the engine with the push-to-start button.

 

[astrand1]

I’ve recently been having 12V battery issues, and I’m pretty sure I have it diagnosed down to the walk away lock feature and the app open and running. A close friend who works for Toyota told me that they frequent have issues with 12V batteries going dead due to computers turn their cars on and off, but customers don’t believe them when their diagnosis is closing the app at home or turning on a proximity to home where the computers don’t engage if at that location.

my house is configured in a way where my master bedroom is directly above my garage and the family room is on the same level as the garage and they share a wall. Ever since I got the walk away lock update, I would frequently get ford app alerts about it engaging as I walked around in my house, or working in the garage, etc… I’ve had two instances of my 12V being dead or my truck throwing HVB and every other alarm and not letting me drive. My portable jump pack has sure come in handy.

Ever since I disabled the walk away lock feature, and started closing the app at home my issues have disappeared!

Wanted to drop the info in a post in case others are having similar issues. I didn’t see another post, but I also didn’t look too hard since I was looking on mobile.

I think you might be confusing walk away lock with welcome lighting. The walk away lock only happens once when you get out and walk away then the doors lock. The welcome lighting will activate whenever you are near the truck with the fob or your phone if you have PAAK. But I’d agree with others that your 12v battery might be getting tired. I’ve had no issues with my truck 12v wise. I have turned off my welcome lighting as it seems to activate whenever I’m at work because I’m close to my truck. At home that’s not an issue.

 

[Dubnicks55]

I think you might be confusing walk away lock with welcome lighting. The walk away lock only happens once when you get out and walk away then the doors lock. The welcome lighting will activate whenever you are near the truck with the fob or your phone if you have PAAK. But I’d agree with others that your 12v battery might be getting tired. I’ve had no issues with my truck 12v wise. I have turned off my welcome lighting as it seems to activate whenever I’m at work because I’m close to my truck. At home that’s not an issue.

Thank for the suggestion! I think you're right. It makes sense that the welcome lighting would be doing the draining. I also think everyone is right here that it's more of the last straw for a 12V battery that's just getting tired/worn down. I've been keeping it on a trickle charger the last few days. Going to get it topped up and tested. I think I'll turn my WAL back on and turn my welcome lighting off.

After everyone's comments my brain reminded me that my wife has come back into the house from picking up kids and said "are your truck lights supposed to be on." so that's likely the main culprit on top of the tired 12V.

 

[Dubnicks55]

Talk to your dealer on the 12v battery issue. They can bring up all the stats using Ford's integrated diagnostic system (IDS) and in your case, the stat that shows the voltage, capacity, and sulfation levels of the 12V battery. IOW, they can easily tell if it needs to be replaced.

Definitely getting this done. I likely would've just swung by an auto part store but I think the dealer is the right move here. Thanks!

 

[Adventureboy]

"are your truck lights supposed to be on."

This has happened to me where the automatic lights somehow get turned off and the lights stay on for significantly longer than intended. Check your switch.

 

[jimfigler]

no issue here with the 12v and walk away locking.

 

[Athrun88]

Just a suggestion if you don't want to disable the WAL : put your key FOB inside a radio-proof pouch - aluminum foil is very effective for this if you don't want to buy one from a vendor. When you WANT WAL, remove it from the foil.

Also has the effect of protecting your from someone who may capture your FOB signals and follow you home then came back at night and opened or even stole your car - happened to a neighbor some a year or two ago.

How a relay attack works

1. Thief 1 captures the fob's signal. A thief holding a radio transmitter stands near a home or office where they know the key fob is located. This device captures the low-power radio frequency (RF) signal that many fobs constantly emit, even when the owner isn't pressing a button. The signal can be picked up through doors, walls, and windows.
2. The signal is relayed and amplified. The transmitter amplifies the captured signal and relays it over a distance to a second thief.
3. Thief 2 receives the signal. An accomplice with a second device stands near the car. Their device receives the amplified signal, making the vehicle's onboard computer think the actual key fob is nearby.
4. The car unlocks and starts. The car then automatically unlocks its doors and allows the thief to start the engine with the push-to-start button.

Good advice, but doesn't help the group that use PaaK and walk around the house within BT range of the vehicle. I've also turned off welcome lighting and WAL and resorted to pressing the lock buttons on the door keypad or trying my luck with the touch lock buttons on one of the doors.

 

[chl]

Good advice, but doesn't help the group that use PaaK and walk around the house within BT range of the vehicle. I've also turned off welcome lighting and WAL and resorted to pressing the lock buttons on the door keypad or trying my luck with the touch lock buttons on one of the doors.

Yes, I see.
But can't you turn off Blue Tooth on the phone?
Kind of a hassle I suppose if you need BT for other things though.

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