Stop Safely Now on start

[AlaskaFlash]

Hi Folks: 1 have a Lightning Flash with walk away lock. This happened yesterday. It was abnormally hot in Juneau, with temperatures at mid to upper 70's. The Lightning was parked in the driveway and we were working on the front decks, getting ready to stain them. I had the windows rolled down because it was hot outside. I know, but hot for Juneau, Alaska. The truck had been parked in the driveway with the windows rolled down for about 5 hours when I went to go run an errand. The truck would not start and gave the message "Stop Safely Now", and then "Full accessory power active". After turning the truck off and back on several times, it finally started. The problem did not reoccur since. I'm guessing that the walk away lock feature kept the 12 volt power running and drained the 12 volt battery. Would turning off walk away lock feature solve this problem if I wanted to leave the windows open again? Thanks

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[Firn]

Hi Folks: 1 have a Lightning Flash with walk away lock. This happened yesterday. It was abnormally hot in Juneau, with temperatures at mid to upper 70's. The Lightning was parked in the driveway and we were working on the front decks, getting ready to stain them. I had the windows rolled down because it was hot outside. I know, but hot for Juneau, Alaska. The truck had been parked in the driveway with the windows rolled down for about 5 hours when I went to go run an errand. The truck would not start and gave the message "Stop Safely Now", and then "Full accessory power active". After turning the truck off and back on several times, it finally started. The problem did not reoccur since. I'm guessing that the walk away lock feature kept the 12 volt power running and drained the 12 volt battery. Would turning off walk away lock feature solve this problem if I wanted to leave the windows open again? Thanks

I suggest searching for that message on the forum. It very well could be a different issue not related to the 12v battery. In my case it was the high voltage contactor and the battery needed to be dropped.

You really need to get the codes scanned.

 

[AlaskaFlash]

Yes, I've searched the forum. The problem is, there is not a Ford dealership here in Juneau, The closest one is in Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada. That is a 8 hour ferry ride then a 90 mile drive. Not the easiest thing to accomplish. I was hoping someone else experienced the same issue. The truck seems to be working fine after that one glitch.

 

[Henry Ford]

Walk-away locks isn't your problem and the truck doesn't care if the windows are down.

Order an OBD scanner on Amazon and find out what DTCs you are dealing with. Maybe it was a glitch but I'm guessing it wasn't. Someone here might be able to help if you can get the DTCs.

 

[TaxmanHog]

The truck would not start and gave the message "Stop Safely Now", and then "Full accessory power active". After turning the truck off and back on several times, it finally started.

Send a DM to @rugedraw with your VIN, he might be able to help give you some information.

 

[RickLightning]

SSN is not from a low 12v battery. And, as stated, while the presence of a FOB or PaaK may wake up a vehicle, the warning you might get is about a 12v battery drain, not SSN.

 

[chl]

I have not had that issue, but there have been a lot of issues with the 12V battery running low.
When the 12V battery gets low, "funny" things can happen and the other message SSN could have been a result of the low battery causing a sensor or test routine to error out and give the SSN.

According to the AI search (for what it is worth):

"Full accessory power active" means the vehicle's electrical system is on, allowing use of accessories like the radio and power windows, but the engine is not running. This state is usually achieved by pressing the start button twice without depressing the brake pedal. While it indicates the battery is functional enough to power these features, a continued message of "full accessory power active" when the car won't start can signal a problem with the battery, electrical system, or software, requiring a manual reset or professional diagnosis."

It then refers to this youtube video which seems to be your situation where the truck wouldn't start at first after getting the messages:



Your best bet is:
1) don't use the Accessory mode and
2) plug the truck in every night which should keep the 12V battery at a higher state of charge, and it will keep it warm if it gets cold (below 40F) at night up there in Alaska.

Another issue you could have if the battery gets low is over the air updates may not install.
One of those recently improved the routine that keeps the 12V battery charged so it should not fall as low.

Quite a number of owners seem to get the 12V battery replaced under warranty due to charging issues which let it get below 50% soc which can shorten the lifespan of AGM batteries.

Good luck!

 

[chl]

PS: if you want to trickle charge the battery use the jump terminals or connect to the correct terminals inside the battery compartment (the blue circles NOT the red X's):

 

[RLXXI]

PS: if you want to trickle charge the battery use the jump terminals or connect to the correct terminals inside the battery compartment (the blue circles NOT the red X's):

Don't want to connect directly to the battery like that, it'll throw off the BMS. There are connection points for ground(-) and positive(+) under the left side frunk top panel.

 

[chl]

Don't want to connect directly to the battery like that, it'll throw off the BMS. There are connection points for ground(-) and positive(+) under the left side frunk top panel. Remove the push pin fasteners along the top of the panel, you'll see the connection points in there.

No, I believe the blue circles are where to connect so as NOT to throw off the BMS, according to all the posts I've read anyway.

The blue circles are the same electrically as the jump posts, but easier to get to - no unscrewing plastic pins to get to the jump terminals under the frunk top passenger side cover.

see the attached document

 

[RLXXI]

No, I believe the blue circles are where to connect so as NOT to throw off the BMS, according to all the posts I've read anyway.

The blue circles are the same electrically as the jump posts, but easier to get to - no unscrewing plastic pins to get to the jump terminals under the frunk top passenger side cover.

Pull your left upper frunk panel off and look. It's long been known to NOT connect directly to the battery since they came out with the BMS back in 2011 or so. You can connect the positive where you show but not the negative.

 

[TaxmanHog]

Pull your left upper frunk panel off and look. It's long been known to NOT connect directly to the battery since they came out with the BMS back in 2011 or so.

True, but we have a LOT of new to FORD converts who might not be aware and have neglected to RTFM

 

[RLXXI]

True, but we have a LOT of new to FORD converts who might not be aware and have neglected to RTFM

Yep.

 

[chl]

Pull your left upper frunk panel off and look. It's long been known to NOT connect directly to the battery since they came out with the BMS back in 2011 or so. You can connect the positive where you show but not the negative.

read the documents

 

[chl]

Pull your left upper frunk panel off and look. It's long been known to NOT connect directly to the battery since they came out with the BMS back in 2011 or so. You can connect the positive where you show but not the negative.

The blue circle negative connection is downstream of the BMS and electrically the same as the negative jump post per the wiring diagram.

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