How can I get into the truck if the physical lock is broken and the 12V battery is dead?

[dww]

Can you post a video of the physical lock spinning? I was similarly locked out but I do not remember the lock spinning. It just would not move the lock. The battery may not be “dead” just not enough voltage to run everything. The lock behavior may change as the voltage further drops.

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[Tired Lizard]

Here's a long shot spitball thought....

Does anyone know if the 7-pin trailer plug near the tow hitch has a 12-volt pin that is connected directly to the 12-volt battery or does it get switched on and off through a module?

12V Charge in 7-Pin is Switched thru the (TRM) Trailer Module.

 

[davehu]

Don't have any suggestions that could help, but I will note that when I got my '23 Lariat, the physical key that pops out of the key fob worked for the center console, but would not work on the truck door. Dealer fixed it. not sure what they did, but I kept the same key. I'd encourage everyone to check their fobkey and make sure it works.

Good luck with your yours and keep us posted on the result.

 

[Ncasini]

I bought a used 2024 Platinum with 10,000 miles in October and have driven it around 2,000 miles.

Like the title says, how can I get into the truck if the physical lock is broken and the 12V battery is dead?

Backstory:

(1) January 11th: Installed brand new DieHard H3-XEV battery as I had gotten the "Vehicle in Battery Saver Mode" message and this replacement would rule out a bad battery.

(2) January 24th - 28th: Went away on four day trip and left the truck plugged in at home.

(3) January 24th: The "Vehicle in Battery Saver Mode" message popped up which also said "Start your vehicle manually to access remote commands"

(4) January 25th: The App notified me that the frunk open and there was an "Opened hood triggered alarm". I reviewed video footage from a home surveillance camera and the there were definitely no intruders. Listening the audio in the surveillance footage, there was a "click" like the frunk was unlatching and then the lights on the truck started flashing (there was no audible alarm).

(5) January 27th: The App notified me that there was an "Alarm Triggered" and said "The F-150 security system has detected vehicle intrusion and triggered the alarm". There was no audible alarm. The App also reported a "Charging Error" that said "Pleas heck your vehicle or charge station for details".

(6) January 29th: Returned home from the trip and found the truck to be completely bricked/unresponsive. I could not unlock the doors from the app, the keyfob or the keypad. For some reason, the physical key does not work and the lock is broken (the key can turn 360 degrees in the lock). So, I can't open the door to use the manual frunk release in order to charge the 12V battery. I had a Ford Roadside tech onsite today and he couldn't get the truck unlocked (he used a wedge, an airbag door frame spreader and a pole/hook, but that was fruitless as all interior buttons are unresponsive due to the dead 12V battery). He also tried to use a SlimJim to pop the lock, but was unsuccessful. I can have it towed to the dealer, but since the tow truck driver can't get in the cab to put the put the truck in neutral, the truck would have to be dragged without the wheels spinning, which is not ideal.

I'd really like to get the door unlocked to avoid towing.

you may have gotten a bad battery. That is a Korean battery and it took me 3 before i had a good one. Did you charge it before you installed it?
couldn’t you just have Ford replace it under warranty?

 

[srspring551]

Yes: To reset the BMS on a Ford F150 Lightning, turn the truck on to accessory mode, flash the headlights five times, and then press the brake pedal three times. The battery icon should flash three times to indicate a successful reset.

nice truck btw, I think we have the same one.

Also, the BMS is on the negative terminal of the battery -- when you test the battery or trickle charge it, you need to make sure you do it through the BMS vs. directly to the battery post (bypassing the BMS). This video explains / shows this on a Ford .... with the same system as the Lightning and Mach e.

OK, if I understand what he says (which is a real assumption ), do I need a more powerful trickle charger?? I have a NOCO genius 2 amp. I thought that was enough.

 

[chl]

Another example of why the 12v should always be on a battery maintainer...

See these linked posts:
------
I keep my 12v battery on a trickle charger/battery maintainer with an AGM mode to avoid premature death (its, not mine) and to ensure OTAs get installed..

Deep discharge, which the lightning algorithm allows, is not good for longevity of these batteries, and the high charging currents seen when the battery is low, are another bad feature of the lightning system of 12v battery management.

This post form the Mach-e forum goes into depth about these 12v AGM batteries:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-recondition-service-your-12v-battery.11069/


If the details about how AGM battery charging progresses are accurate, the truck will not, on it's own, top off the battery in many cases because of the time it takes. That makes a trickle charger even more important for longevity since it can be on the 12v battery for many hours at a time charging even when the truck HV is not.


And this one about the different ways to charge up the battery to get OTAs:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-get-failed-otas-to-install.29749/

Also several threads here about putting trickle chargers on the battery and how to make it easier by adding a trickle charger wire:

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/charging-12v-battery.16979/

This is what I did - I put a wire with an SAE plug on one end through a small hole I drilled next to the charge port hinge where it would not damage anything, and ran it to the battery compartment where I attached it to a fused wire with ring terminals that would fit the 6mm bolts:

Yes, Ford could reprogram the system to: 1) top off to 100% regularly and 2) at a 'trickle' current that will not stress the battery and will 3) avoid deep discharging to prevent permanent sulfates forming.

From what I read, Tesla did that after numerous 12v battery failures.

This is not only an issue with the Lightning and Mach-e, other EVs have the same issue, e.g., the Nissan Leaf, it is an active topic on their forums.

But any 12v lead-acid battery in any vehicle will last longer if kept at 100% whenever not in use.

Besides the cost of replacing a battery or the inconvenience of getting stranded and needing a jump, there is the problem of recycling the lead they contain. Too often companies ship them to poor countries to be processed where significant lead contamination of air, soil and water may result.

So the longer one can make their lead-acid battery last, the better all around.

 

[TaxmanHog]

The Ford Engineers need to get back to the drawing board with this logic, I'd accept a slight increase in vampire drain on the HVB to ensure the LVB is ALWAYS HEALTHY!!!

 

[chl]

The Ford Engineers need to get back to the drawing board with this logic, I'd accept a slight increase in vampire drain on the HVB to ensure the LVB is ALWAYS HEALTHY!!!

Someone said Tesla redid their logic to keep the 12v topped off to 100% after many 12v battery replacements...I guess to Ford the cost is just a drop in the bucket, and the owner inconvenience is something to be ignored?

 

[Al_V]

Sounds like no one has the answer to the OP's question of how to unlock if the battery is dead and key lock is broke or no key available.

 

[chl]

I think the consensus is you have to have the 12v supply.

So I would get a vehicle with a good battery, get a long jump cable and connect it to the jump terminals under the front trunk (FRUNK) passenger side panel per manula (around page 425):

But he needs a locksmith to get into the truck at this point...

 

[PJnc284]

Sounds like no one has the answer to the OP's question of how to unlock if the battery is dead and key lock is broke or no key available.

I mean breaking the window would be the quickest but most expensive option if pulling the passenger fender well liner doesn't get you to the jump posts. That or pay another locksmith to try to break into it

 

[Mikerson]

Would some dollies help so that you could get it to the dealer without dragging it? Ignore the capacity on those in the photo.

 

[Al_V]

I think the consensus is you have to have the 12v supply.

So I would get a vehicle with a good battery, get a long jump cable and connect it to the jump terminals under the front trunk (FRUNK) passenger side panel per manula (around page 425):

OK, but how do you open the frunk with dead battery and doors locked?

 

[chl]

To open a dead Ford F-150 Lightning frunk, use the physical key from the fob to enter the driver’s door, then locate the manual release lever in the driver-side footwell. Pull this red tab twice to release the primary and secondary latches.
(Alternatively, connect a 12V jump box to the leads behind the small access panel on the front bumper - I think that is for a Tesla!)

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...ate=ive&vld=cid:0f283c81,vid:NUx3XZNMwAs,st:0

This is the problem with power locks, windows and frunks when the battery is dead and key won't work, or is inside the truck.

Will Ford roadside assistance come help him I wonder?

 

[PJnc284]

To open a dead Ford F-150 Lightning frunk, use the physical key from the fob to enter the driver’s door, then locate the manual release lever in the driver-side footwell. Pull this red tab twice to release the primary and secondary latches. Alternatively, connect a 12V jump box to the leads behind the small access panel on the front bumper:

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...ate=ive&vld=cid:0f283c81,vid:NUx3XZNMwAs,st:0

Someone didn't read the thread.

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