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RickLightning

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Tired Lizard

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Wasn't mentioned in the ad at all, was a surprise find inside the package. After further inspection however, it's actually a NEMA L14 30P female x NEMA L5 30R adapter. I cut that end of the cable off in favor of a direct hard wired connection to the inverter minus the ground wire.
So the Ford Vehicle Connector just had Neutral & Hots wired at each end?

edit:
I should have put in is the Ford Connector pigtail L14-30P to L5-30R cord only 3 wires?
Ford F-150 Lightning Real-World Home Power Backup Options Using F-150 Lightning 1783188570547-3


https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...ased-back-feeding-equipment.49383/post-839483
Ford F-150 Lightning Real-World Home Power Backup Options Using F-150 Lightning 1783190289458-u
 
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Vulnox

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We have a 50 amp capable inlet to a breaker with interlock already. I use it with our large open frame generator when needed (which has a 50 amp plug). I just want to be able to use it with the Lightning when we don't need all 50 amps. I wish someone had an adapter with the ground bypass already done, hate the idea of messing with an existing adapter.
 

RickLightning

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We have a 50 amp capable inlet to a breaker with interlock already. I use it with our large open frame generator when needed (which has a 50 amp plug). I just want to be able to use it with the Lightning when we don't need all 50 amps. I wish someone had an adapter with the ground bypass already done, hate the idea of messing with an existing adapter.
My son's power is out right now in Saline. I drove the Lightning over last night, and he has extension cords running. House came with (he moved in a month ago) the same you have. He's looking right now for a 50' cord, with the plan to first remove the plug ground in the box and test. Once it works fine, reconnect the ground wire, and snip off the ground on the 50' cord.
 

flyct

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I have 2 cables. A standard 30 amp generator cable and a custom cable that I bult over 20 years ago after Hurricanes took out power in Ft Lauderdale for over a week. The custom cable is a 50 foot 10-3 SOOW Cable with a NEMA L14-30P on generator side and a L14-30R on house side with no ground connection on either end. I keep it in my Lightning in the side mounted swing out box. I have used it multiple times at our remote cabin when power is out. The cabin has a 30 amp generator inlet and a 30 amp interlock bypass kit installed.

I also used my Lightning with teh custom cable at my daughter's house last year when they had a main line cut and lost power for 24 house. She has a standard generator inlet box installed. It worked fine and powered muiple mini spilts.

When using the gas generator I have a Standard Generator 30 amp cord that I use. The Lightning is so much easier to use than the gas generator.

In my new house I had electrician install a 50 amp inlet box and a Square D QO interlock Bypass kit in the main panel. When I use one of my 30 amp cords to connect to the 50 amp inlet I have a NEMA L14-30P to SS2-50R RV Marine Power Generator Adapter. I keep that adaptor on top of my sub panel next to the main breaker box. I had the 50 amp generator inlet box installed at the new house because I intend on getting a 50 amp gas generator in the future. My Lighting won't run my 5 ton AC since the inrush current is 30.7 amps, even with a MicroAir Flex installed. But I have a mini split in teh Master Bedroom that will run perfectly with the Lightning connected.
 
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My son's power is out right now in Saline. I drove the Lightning over last night, and he has extension cords running. House came with (he moved in a month ago) the same you have. He's looking right now for a 50' cord, with the plan to first remove the plug ground in the box and test. Once it works fine, reconnect the ground wire, and snip off the ground on the 50' cord.
Instead of cutting on an expensive 50' cord go this route:
short cord. and new plug.
 

RickLightning

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Instead of cutting on an expensive 50' cord go this route:
short cord. and new plug.
I got a 50 ft 14-30 cord and an adapter to fit the 50R outlet. I plan on removing the outlet ground wire to test, and then put it back and remove the ground conductor on the adapter. If the adapter won't stay tight due to the ground conductor being removed (doubtful), I will either rig up some Velcro straps or wrap it in electrical tape.
 

luebri

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I got a 50 ft 14-30 cord and an adapter to fit the 50R outlet. I plan on removing the outlet ground wire to test, and then put it back and remove the ground conductor on the adapter. If the adapter won't stay tight due to the ground conductor being removed (doubtful), I will either rig up some Velcro straps or wrap it in electrical tape.
exactly the same setup I have if I ever need to use it.
 

RickLightning

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exactly the same setup I have if I ever need to use it.
Did you have any issue cutting the ground prong off the adapter, and then finding that it didn't lock to the 14-30 cord and the connection didn't stay in place?
 

ClevelandBeemer

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Did you have any issue cutting the ground prong off the adapter, and then finding that it didn't lock to the 14-30 cord and the connection didn't stay in place?
Another solution is to remove the ground from the inlet box, which is what I did. I think marked the box with labels that say ground disconnected.
 

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RickLightning

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Another solution is to remove the ground from the inlet box, which is what I did. I think marked the box with labels that say ground disconnected.
Yes. Since it's my son's house, and he can't control if someone tried to hookup a generator to it without paying attention to the ground being disconnected, we've decided to modify the adapter. Cord and adapter will be stored in the Lightning, which I have.
 

luebri

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Did you have any issue cutting the ground prong off the adapter, and then finding that it didn't lock to the 14-30 cord and the connection didn't stay in place?
Never had to use it.... so not sure, but now that you bring it up I do see how that could be a potential issue that I should test.

I tested initially and got the same ground fault as everyone else and that when it dawned on me the lowest cost, easiest way to test circumvention of that fault is simply removing the ground on the 30A to 50a adapter as I don't want to modify the generator inlet.

It hasn't been a high priority for me to test as a) power outages have been virtually non-existent at at our house and b) the truck is not my primary generator option as I have a 12,000 watt dual-fuel portable generator. The only reason to use the truck would be to not have to deal with the noise of that generator or if for whatever reason it was not functioning when needed.
 

RickLightning

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Never had to use it.... so not sure, but now that you bring it up I do see how that could be a potential issue that I should test.

I tested initially and got the same ground fault as everyone else and that when it dawned on me the lowest cost, easiest way to test circumvention of that fault is simply removing the ground on the 30A to 50a adapter as I don't want to modify the generator inlet.

It hasn't been a high priority for me to test as a) power outages have been virtually non-existent at at our house and b) the truck is not my primary generator option as I have a 12,000 watt dual-fuel portable generator. The only reason to use the truck would be to not have to deal with the noise of that generator or if for whatever reason it was not functioning when needed.
As far as test, I mean to remove the ground prong, then plug them in, and twist. You've removed the locking part (ground prong). Now, try to pull them apart. I think they will come apart. So the question is whether it is a tight fit or not. Worse case I figured velcro strap or wrap with electrical tape, but it's barely going to get any use.

I would do the above test with cord and adapter, not plugged into anything.
 

El Duderino

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Another solution is to remove the ground from the inlet box, which is what I did. I think marked the box with labels that say ground disconnected.
Another way to accomplish this is to use a toggle switch between the receptacle ground and house ground. Label it. Use it in either configuration as needed.
 

ClevelandBeemer

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Another way to accomplish this is to use a toggle switch between the receptacle ground and house ground. Label it. Use it in either configuration as needed.
Not a bad idea!

Thanks!
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