Lightning Software Updates using FDRS

[flyin525]

Updated two fellow lightning owners today and got to experience the IPMA fun. Really is like watching paint dry. Someone needs to put a supercharger on the mongoose. Below was everything out of date on a 2022 Platinum and had to fix the small 360 camera that a dealer previously fudged. Guess I'll go ahead and update mine this evening once it cools down some since I already have the license.

If you do it again, please let me know. I live in Youngsville.

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[bmwhitetx]

outlet monitor showed I burned about 2kWh over those 4 hours and held a steady 10 amps during most of the updates. Oddly enough the IPMA never showed above 5 and the truck voltage never dropped below 13.1 where some of the others updates went as low as 12.4V

The Govee is monitoring the 120 VAC input to your power supply. That is not what folks refer to when sizing the power supply. They refer to the output DC current. Your screenshot shows 122.2V. If you were typically pulling 10 amps AC then that’s 1200 watts. At 13.1 volts output your power supply was providing over 75 amps (85% efficiency).

If the IPMA was pulling 5A from the wall, that’s about 35-40 amps DC.

Just don’t want folks thinking they can get by with a 10 amp DC power supply. I use this on mine. https://a.co/d/jdIKSvR

 

[Runaway Tractor]

Going in for the parking sensor CSP 24B56, upper control arm recall, and 30K service. Also asked them to install the BCM update while they're at it. If all goes well, I should be able to enable BC1.4 and walk away lock in Forscan.

Could someone look up xxxx in FDRS to see what is currently on the list?

 

[PJnc284]

Going in for the parking sensor CSP 24B56, upper control arm recall, and 30K service. Also asked them to install the BCM update while they're at it. If all goes well, I should be able to enable BC1.4 and walk away lock in Forscan.

Could someone look up in FDRS to see what is currently on the list?

I would remove the vin from your post but below is what's showing for you vin.

The Govee is monitoring the 120 VAC input to your power supply. That is not what folks refer to when sizing the power supply. They refer to the output DC current. Your screenshot shows 122.2V. If you were typically pulling 10 amps AC then that’s 1200 watts. At 13.1 volts output your power supply was providing over 75 amps (85% efficiency).

If the IPMA was pulling 5A from the wall, that’s about 35-40 amps DC.

Just don’t want folks thinking they can get by with a 10 amp DC power supply. I use this on mine. https://a.co/d/jdIKSvR

I updated the post to avoid confusion. I should've clarified that I was seeing what the overall power demand from the house was. Last time when I checked with a clamp meter on the actual leads from the power supply, some of the updates were pulling over 60 amps so your off the shelf trickle charger certainly won't cut it.

If you do it again, please let me know. I live in Youngsville.

will do.

Thanks for taking the extended time to do all of my updates, credit for the adapter holder / lock goes to carys98, though it was a bit exciting when we thought it jammed in your glove box.

I ran through FORSCAN this evening to get everything enabled and it's looking good. A note to anyone else thinking of doing this, bring sunscreen, I didn't think I'd get burned updating my truck but 5 hours in the sun with friends will do that.

shhh...you weren't supposed to say that. I blame it on the heat for frying a few brain cells. Luckily the old hit it real hard usually works. And no sun burn for me today. It's nice being naturally dark.

 

[Runaway Tractor]

I would remove the vin from your post but below is what's showing for you vin.

Thanks! I'm going to ask them to do all of it, and if unable/unwilling, at least do the BCM.

 

[PJnc284]

Thanks! I'm going to ask them to do all of it, and if unable/unwilling, at least do the BCM.

May be worth mentioning tsb 25-2048. Quite a few have used it to get everything updated.

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...ity-and-intermittent-system-reboot-etc.25115/

 

[Runaway Tractor]

May be worth mentioning tsb 25-2048. Quite a few have used it to get everything updated.

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...ity-and-intermittent-system-reboot-etc.25115/

Holy crap that's going on the list! Thx.

 

[GDN]

Holy crap that's going on the list! Thx.

As @PJnc284 notes - ask for the TSB to be done. It seems most dealers won't do a module by request, but pretty sure they have to do the TSB since Ford has put it out, if you ask for it.

I'm in your shoes. I don't think they'll ever get wireless car play working flawlessly, so I've resigned myself to wired. However, doesn't matter, I can ask for this and get the BCM which is what I'm really after like you are.

 

[Runaway Tractor]

Yeah I don't even have legit concern requiring the TSB ?. Sync and Android Auto work seemingly fine for me. But if it gets me the BCM, I'm willing to exaggerate one time it failed to connect 8 months ago.

 

[GDN]

Yeah I don't even have legit concern requiring the TSB ?. Sync and Android Auto work seemingly fine for me. But if it gets me the BCM, I'm willing to exaggerate one time it failed to connect 8 months ago.

Ford has created the game, you have to play it.

 

[Mike G]

So I did go through the IPMA PMI routine using the TOPDON RLink this morning and FDRS is smarter than I am, apparently.

It all went fine, but because my IPMA was already at the latest software and configuration it didn't do any block erasing and replacing.....simply gave my truck a nice pat on the head and said "there now...that didn't hurt a bit, now did it?". I even tried to force it to redo everything by saying "No" when asked if the original module was installed. But apparently FDRS checked everything and decided that I was delusional and didn't actually need a PMI afterall.

But on the upside...the TOPDON RLink worked like you'd expect. I plugged it directly in without using the OBD extension pigtail (why add unneeded complexity if you don't have to) and it performed just as well at doing everything I needed to do today.

Obviously, the real test will be the next time I actually have some updates to do, and I will definitely use the RLink to do whatever comes up next, either on my truck or the MME.

 

[GDN]

Anyone have any feedback on @Pioneer74 's post about https://a.co/d/1IMY4ck ?

I bought the Topdon on the Spring sale and finding a power supply under $200 would be a great find too. I just don't know the features to truly look at. Will they fluctuate to demand of the truck, do they have enough controls on them for the power we need?

I'll note it doesn't look like this one has aligator clips, but those won't cost $200 which is the next step up for the next Powermax or even more for the Clore. I would never have another need than for applying updates to the truck, so truly looking to keep that expense reasonable.

It would be nice to get both of these for less than the cost of the Mongoose alone.

 

[digitaldad]

Anyone have any feedback on @Pioneer74 's post about https://a.co/d/1IMY4ck ?

I bought the Topdon on the Spring sale and finding a power supply under $200 would be a great find too. I just don't know the features to truly look at. Will they fluctuate to demand of the truck, do they have enough controls on them for the power we need?

I'll note it doesn't look like this one has aligator clips, but those won't cost $200 which is the next step up for the next Powermax or even more for the Clore. I would never have another need than for applying updates to the truck, so truly looking to keep that expense reasonable.

It would be nice to get both of these for less than the cost of the Mongoose alone.

I was going to go for that power supply in the beginning too. Some youtuber did some signal/noise tests with it and stated he wouldn't use it for flash-programming. I was then going to go for the next version up (which includes the battery cables and lcd display)...I thought this other youtuber stated this one was fine.

In my case, I ended up with the clore (I know, not helpful) but kept thinking that its hard to believe the PSU that you posted is technically different than the next version with the bat cables and I regret not trying it out.

Earlier there was a post for the LCD display, I would definitely add that to the PSU since the output voltage is via a pot/adjuster.

BTW: there were eBay sellers with multiple QTY cheaper on those vs Amazon, if you didn't yet search there (I havent't looked in awhile).

 

[GDN]

I was going to go for that power supply in the beginning too. Some youtuber did some signal/noise tests with it and stated he wouldn't use it for flash-programming. I was then going to go for the next version up (which includes the battery cables and lcd display)...I thought this other youtuber stated this one was fine.

In my case, I ended up with the clore (I know, not helpful) but kept thinking that its hard to believe the PSU that you posted is technically different than the next version with the bat cables and I regret not trying it out.

Earlier there was a post for the LCD display, I would definitely add that to the PSU since the output voltage is via a pot/adjuster.

BTW: there were eBay sellers with multiple QTY cheaper on those vs Amazon, if you didn't yet search there (I havent't looked in awhile).

Thank you - great feedback, I hadn't thought about YouTubers. I had searched eBay for the Clore and the top end Powermax and there was nothing a few days ago (at least at better prices) but had not looked for these entry level devices.

 

[PJnc284]

I've had good luck with the Powermax PMBC-75. Spent about 10 hours running it Saturday. Granted I've only had it for 6 months so can't comment on longevity but it seems to get good reviews.

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