I like you are using a server power supply. I do the same thing. As for clamps, I don’t use them. I made a short 3-foot cable set off the power supply with a ring termination. Then use a 6mm nut to attach to the positive terminal and the BMS sensor (not the negative terminal). There’s enough exposed thread on each of those studs to just stack the terminal and extra nut. Worked well And gives a solid connection. Could put your Anderson connector there.
They're perfect for the task! This was the first time using this one that I just built so it was a great test. I used a smaller one in the past for a Chevy Volt but wanted to have some head room and build a beefier one for the truck.
I had to go back and reapply the bits I had changed for the mods I did like matrix headlights. I kept all the changes done in a notepad so it was relatively painless. All of them are in the first couple of pages in the Forscan thread.
You should be able to restore your ipc backup after loading the 2024 config also. Just be sure to make note of what 720-13s and 720-14s were in the 24 config and update after restoring. Otherwise you get a config error.
if you’ve got no changed values in the IPC then just do the update and dump this stock as built from a 24 Lariat in your IPC
You say that but my Ford dealer basically bricked my 5mo old lightning by not having a charger on it during a CSP which updated all the modules. They had it for 35 days trying to repair, replaced front motor inverter and coolant pump twice. The issue was that the coolant pump ran at 100% as soon as you started the truck. The inverter controls that and they found that after replacing the pump twice thinking it was the issue."The operation is not safe",,, LOL,, it's almost as if they are trying to scare you out of doing MFU. Does anyone who has familiarity of FDRS know if these exact same warnings get prompted with FDRS. I've always assumed FORScan just copies everything from FDRS, I'm curious if they added scare tactics to really weed out the less confidents tinkerers?
All that being said, don't be scared. I had a little charger on mine and it failed twice, 2nd time like 3hrs in when my battery got so low the truck started freaking out, lights flickering and all,, I got back from dinner and the batt voltage was 8V,,, Dohhhhhh,,,, All that shit, and it worked on the 3rd try with an 80A automotive roll around charger. Also, let me say, as an electrical engineer, There should be no way to damage anything with failed updates. Since the 90's engineers have figured out how to do checksums and full firmware integrity checks that rely on downloading before ever initiating the actual firmware swap within the processor's memory space. If Ford isn't doing a robust job of this then that is severe negligence on their part. Still we hear about dealers bricking modules and such, it's a bizarre situation we're in with a truck who's manufacturer's strong suite is not software. I'm so glad we have a good community of people curious and willing to push the limits to work on our own shit. I love seeing the overall success of real world owners figuring stuff out. Hack on!
They didn't brick your truck. They just did something they didn't know how to reverse. If I had a dollar for every time Jesse has stepped in and fixed a truck when a certified mechanic at a dealer said it was bricked I'd be rich.
If Jesse can't fix something you might as well buy a new truck because Ford won't figure it out.
A-Do the upgrade firstTo confirm, because I know if I have questions, others do too. Hoping someone here can confirm in plain language like not so smart.
1) If you have a '23 with IPC mods from previous tweaks you
a) complete the upgrade with the '24 IPC and then you must
b) apply an as-built for your chosen vehicle (in my case, a Lariat ER with max tow etc.)
c) re-do the mods as desired, but using the '24 IPC sheet.
Is that correct? Have I missed a step? Do I need b) or can I go right to c)?
2) Best to do the IPC updates before applying any of the new centre screen changes to charging preferences?
3) 12V, 100A Server supply a good way to ensure the truck stays happy. Disconnect the 12V battery, and use jump start terminals to connect the Server Supply?
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Want to give this a go, no stranger to FORSCAN, but also don't want to brick
I use a HP 100W server supply and it works great. Do not disconnect the battery. The power supply will be fine in parallel. Did you modify it to output 13-14 volts? If not, I don’t think it will supply amps until your battery drops to its voltage.
