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ProPower 9.6kW - How many separate 120v / 20amp circuits can i get?

ScottC

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I have a 24 Flash ER with ProPower 9.6KW option. Heading to Vegas for a video shoot in a couple weeks. The location we are filming does offer power drops, but they are pricey and i'd like to avoid if possible. I'm trying to determine how many separate 20amp 120v circuits i can squeeze out and use simultaneously.
1. As i see it - the Frunk and the Bed each have a separate 20amp/120v circuit.
2. The 30amp/240 could be converted with a pigtail to 2x 120v 15amp circuits?

Obviously, i'm not an electrician, so looking for some support here. The Pigtail i'm talking about would be something like this from Grainger...

https://www.grainger.com/product/PO...-4FZZ6?opr=PDPRRDSP&analytics=dsrrItems_4FZZ1
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Vulnox

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I got one of the pigtails like you mentioned that I have used in a few power outages (but with our PowerBoost F-150s, not yet with the Lightning, same ProPower set up essentially though).

I use one of these which is like the one you linked but has two 5-20Rs per leg.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Distribution-Locking-Household-Protection/dp/B09P3GX6DM?th=1

As I understand it though you are correct, you can have two circuits (one per leg) from the 30 amp, but I believe the other two sets of 120 outlets in the bed are on the same inverter pair as the 30 amp. So whatever you plug into the 30 amp takes from your total for everything else in the bed.

The outlets in the frunk are on their own inverter.

The outlets in the cab could also be used, but they share with the frunk or bed, I am sure someone will mention which.

Really though it comes down to just not overloading the individual inverters. So knowing the draw from what you are plugging in is more important. If it's mainly lights and charging batteries you could probably run a lot just from the 30 amp and some extension cords, so long as it doesn't exceed 3600 watts on any individual leg (7200 total for the 30 amp).

Where people sometimes run into trouble is with electric motors as the surge draw can be a problem for the breakers in the F-150. Like if you have an A/C unit on a travel trailer that is 4000 watts when running normally but pulls 8000 watts at start through surge draw, it will typically trip the breaker. But a lot of off the shelf gas generators are able to handle that temporary surge draw without tripping.

It's best to test it before you rely on it if you have the equipment you plan to use.
 

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Frunk / Cabin are on the Frunk inverter 2400 watts, 20 amps MAX at 120 v

Bed is on rear inverter, 7200 watts, 30 amps max per 120 v leg via the 240 output with conversion cable, though I'd limit combined 15/20 amp appliances (lights & equipment) so that the sum does not exceed 30 amps or the capacity of connecting extension cables.
 

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Since you have time, maybe do a test and hook everything up and see which configuration works best?
 

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I would ignore the 240 if you are only running 120 - the two sets of two 120s are the A and B side of the same 240 circuit - so think internal pigtail already.

You can run 4 circuits - the 4 plugs at rear - as a simulated 120/20 amp. Note you can pull 120/30 amp from those plugs and melt your cords if not careful.

Off the front you can run one 20, or maybe two 15s - if you know your draws aren't continuous. Don't close the trunk or you go from 2400 to 400 watts of power.

If you know what your heavy draws are you can handle three easily - and three lighter circuits.
 

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chl

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What everyone said and...

Watch out for reacitive loads (e.g., motors, compressors) they will draw an inrush current that could trip the breaker(s).

Also watch out for devices that produce electrical noise on the line, the GFCI seems to be very sensitive to that noise. Things like heaters that use switching to control the temp could be an issue - saw a post about electric blanket doing that, as well as some kind of drill (Dremel?).

I second the test it before-hand recommendation!
 

Adventureboy

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Lots of good info above. 3 is the total number of 20-amp circuits. One from each bank in the bed and one from the frunk.
As others have mentioned, you can pull up to 30 amps from each of the banks in the bed. 30 amps per bank, but please self-limit to 20 amps per outlet or things may melt. If you need full-rated 20-amp circuits to run your equipment, you'd be limited to 3.
 

Firn

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I have a 24 Flash ER with ProPower 9.6KW option. Heading to Vegas for a video shoot in a couple weeks. The location we are filming does offer power drops, but they are pricey and i'd like to avoid if possible. I'm trying to determine how many separate 20amp 120v circuits i can squeeze out and use simultaneously.
1. As i see it - the Frunk and the Bed each have a separate 20amp/120v circuit.
2. The 30amp/240 could be converted with a pigtail to 2x 120v 15amp circuits?

Obviously, i'm not an electrician, so looking for some support here. The Pigtail i'm talking about would be something like this from Grainger...

https://www.grainger.com/product/PO...-4FZZ6?opr=PDPRRDSP&analytics=dsrrItems_4FZZ1
9600w is 80amps using 120v circuits, so 4 20 amp circuits, at least technically.

The front inverter can run one 20a (120v * 20a = 2400w).

The rear can run 3, technically, but not in reality.
The rear 120v outlets are just the 240v split. You will see an A/B on the 240 plug cover, and an A on the cover of one set of 120v outlets, and a B on the other set. This A and B are the "legs" of the 240v. You can put one 20a load on each, but unfortunately not a second on either as that would be too much for that "leg". You could do one 20a on one leg and two 15a on the other however (240v * 30a = 2x 120v * 30A or 4x 120v * 15a)
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