Charging with Lincoln/Ford home charger?

[Kenstjohn]

We have been charging our '22 Lincoln Corsair PHEV at home for almost 3 years now without a hitch. I hooked up the Lincoln/Ford charger via a nifty Y plug that hooks into a dedicated 220v line at our dryer. Can run the dryer or charge the car ... just not both at the same time!! I believe it's a 30amp line, at least that's what on the circuit breaker box!! Again ... never have any issues.

The first time I plugged in our brand new 25' Flash, it started to work OK, but in about an hour gave me a failure error. I also noted some clicking from the Y connector. I did a little research and saw I might need to lower the Lightning's line from the default 60amp draw down. I first tried 30-amp, and still got the errors. Moved the slider down to 24-amp and it seemed to be OK, but of course it took longer. Not a problem.

In a couple of days I'll be plugging the Flash in again. I just charged the Lincoln today, and had no issues at all.

Was wondering if anyone knows the exact setting I should dial in on the Flash for the Lincoln/Ford wall charger. It's the 110v/220v model.

Thanks in advance!!

Ken

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[TaxmanHog]

24 amps

 

[K6CCC]

24 amps with a 30 amp breaker is exactly right.

 

[Heliian]

Not a problem.

Bingpot.

 

[RickLightning]

This is a great example of the danger of using a 30amp dryer outlet to charge an EV.

Your Flash was attempting to pull 48amps. Wires could have caught fire, outlet melted. Your breaker didn't pop. Did your "nifty" Y plug prevent disaster?

Luckily, the 25s allow you to lower amperage.

 

[MattVT]

Wires could have caught fire, outlet melted. Your breaker didn't pop.

I agree - it's concerning that the breaker didn't trip from this for sure!

@Kenstjohn for a little context, the rule is that for continuous loads (things that potentially run for 3+ hours), they should pull no more than 80% of the rating of the breaker. Hence why with a 30A breaker, the charger should be set to 24A (30A * 80% = 24A) or lower.

I would recommend you contact an electrician to check (and likely replace) that breaker for you. It's possible that the breaker is fine and the charger didn't pull >30A for long enough to trip the breaker, but I'm surprised.

If I were you, I'd want to know that the breaker is working correctly. If not, the risk is that someone plugs an EV into the charger in future without limiting the current first, and it starts a fire because the wiring and outlet are underrated for the current being pulled.

 

[RLXXI]

Before I got the FCSP installed, I used the portable charger also thru the dryer outlet, you have to lower the charge rate to 27A so that it doesn't trip the breaker.

Used it that way for almost 2 months with no issues

 

[MaintGrl]

Ya, My Stock ford charger pulls 27a on a 50a

 

[Kenstjohn]

Thanks so much!! I figured it should work well as it has been such an easy solution for our Corsair.

Cheers!!

Ken

 

[chl]

We have been charging our '22 Lincoln Corsair PHEV at home for almost 3 years now without a hitch. I hooked up the Lincoln/Ford charger via a nifty Y plug that hooks into a dedicated 220v line at our dryer. Can run the dryer or charge the car ... just not both at the same time!! I believe it's a 30amp line, at least that's what on the circuit breaker box!! Again ... never have any issues.

The first time I plugged in our brand new 25' Flash, it started to work OK, but in about an hour gave me a failure error. I also noted some clicking from the Y connector. I did a little research and saw I might need to lower the Lightning's line from the default 60amp draw down. I first tried 30-amp, and still got the errors. Moved the slider down to 24-amp and it seemed to be OK, but of course it took longer. Not a problem.

In a couple of days I'll be plugging the Flash in again. I just charged the Lincoln today, and had no issues at all.

Was wondering if anyone knows the exact setting I should dial in on the Flash for the Lincoln/Ford wall charger. It's the 110v/220v model.

Thanks in advance!!

Ken

Glad you found a fix by lowering to 24A.

As others have said, for a continuous load, like an EVSE, that is the max current a 30A circuit should be drawing.

That made me wonder about the 22 Lincoln Corsair PHEV charging rate since it worked without a hitch for 3 years.

So, if what I found in a Lincoln forum post is correct, the EVSE itself could go up to 32A MAX, but the Corsair PHEV will only ask for 16A due to the limits of the on-board charging circuitry on the Corsair.

If it is functioning correctly, the EVSE will tell the EV what it's maximum charge current is via the J1772 signals. So even if the MAX setting of the Lightning is 60A, the EVSE will tell the EV to limit to no more than the EVSE's max.

However, the EVSE you have apparently has a max current of 32A if the info I found is correct. So it will tell the Lightning "I can provide 32A" via the J1772 signaling and the Lightning will control the current to draw no more than the 32A MAX.

So Lightning should never try and draw 60A from a 32A EVSE.

The Lightning can of course ask for less than the MAX EVSE current.

But on a 30A circuit, a 32A continuous load is overloading the circuit. Even a 30A draw on a 30A circuit is an overload for a continuous load.

As others noted, 24A is the max current for a continuous load on a 30A circuit.

It appears to me that what is happening when you hear the clicks and get the failure message is that either the Y-connector (if it has smart control circuitry) or the EVSE detected the overload/overheating after 1 hour and caused the circuit to shut down leading to an indication of "failure" from the Lightning.

If you want to have the full potential 32A, you should put the EVSE on a 40A circuit. That is a circuit with an outlet, wire and breaker suitable for 40A.

The dryer is on the 30A circuit and since it is NOT considered a 'continuous load' it can draw the full 30A or less.

A continuous load is an electrical load that is expected to draw its maximum current for three hours or more.

However, your best bet might be to get an EVSE that can provide the full potential for your Lightning, which I assume is 48A for a 2025 Flash? I think that is where the 60A in your post comes from - a 48A EVSE should be on a 60A circuit.

It will be charging twice as fast (48A vs 24A). It would have to be hardwired - cannot use a plug-in connection on a 48A EVSE.

 

[MattVT]

It appears to me that what is happening when you hear the clicks and get the failure message is that either the Y-connector (if it has smart control circuitry) or the EVSE detected the overload/overheating after 1 hour and caused the circuit to shut down leading to an indication of "failure" from the Lightning.

@Kenstjohn can you share the model of the "nifty Y plug" you're using? I'm intrigued to learn more, but I suspect @chl is correct that the Y-plug is stepping in here to protect you.

 

[Kenstjohn]

@Kenstjohn can you share the model of the "nifty Y plug" you're using? I'm intrigued to learn more, but I suspect @chl is correct that the Y-plug is stepping in here to protect you.

When I searched my previous orders on Amazon, this came up.

https://www.amazon.com/NeoCharge-Amp-Smart-Splitter-Thousands/dp/B09RK66MTQ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

I suspect this is a new model as mine doesn't have an app or wifi capability. Works like a charm ... and I see it specifically mentions 24amp!! Duh ... guess I should have thought to check that out in the beginning!! Apparently the Lincoln pulls that out of the box as I never had an issue or reason to check into it further!!

I see there are alternatives that are around the same cost (~$350) which tracks with what I recall paying. In any case, our public utility rebated me the full price so my net cost was $0!!

Ken

 

[Kenstjohn]

Glad you found a fix by lowering to 24A.

As others have said, for a continuous load, like an EVSE, that is the max current a 30A circuit should be drawing.

That made me wonder about the 22 Lincoln Corsair PHEV charging rate since it worked without a hitch for 3 years.

So, if what I found in a Lincoln forum post is correct, the EVSE itself could go up to 32A MAX, but the Corsair PHEV will only ask for 16A due to the limits of the on-board charging circuitry on the Corsair.

If it is functioning correctly, the EVSE will tell the EV what it's maximum charge current is via the J1772 signals. So even if the MAX setting of the Lightning is 60A, the EVSE will tell the EV to limit to no more than the EVSE's max.

However, the EVSE you have apparently has a max current of 32A if the info I found is correct. So it will tell the Lightning "I can provide 32A" via the J1772 signaling and the Lightning will control the current to draw no more than the 32A MAX.

So Lightning should never try and draw 60A from a 32A EVSE.

The Lightning can of course ask for less than the MAX EVSE current.

But on a 30A circuit, a 32A continuous load is overloading the circuit. Even a 30A draw on a 30A circuit is an overload for a continuous load.

As others noted, 24A is the max current for a continuous load on a 30A circuit.

It appears to me that what is happening when you hear the clicks and get the failure message is that either the Y-connector (if it has smart control circuitry) or the EVSE detected the overload/overheating after 1 hour and caused the circuit to shut down leading to an indication of "failure" from the Lightning.

If you want to have the full potential 32A, you should put the EVSE on a 40A circuit. That is a circuit with an outlet, wire and breaker suitable for 40A.

The dryer is on the 30A circuit and since it is NOT considered a 'continuous load' it can draw the full 30A or less.

A continuous load is an electrical load that is expected to draw its maximum current for three hours or more.

However, your best bet might be to get an EVSE that can provide the full potential for your Lightning, which I assume is 48A for a 2025 Flash? I think that is where the 60A in your post comes from - a 48A EVSE should be on a 60A circuit.

It will be charging twice as fast (48A vs 24A). It would have to be hardwired - cannot use a plug-in connection on a 48A EVSE.

Thank so much for the detail info!! Since my knowledge of electricity is very minimal, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain what happened!! If I have any further issues, I will consider getting a new line put in but since the Lincoln has worked so well, and so trouble free, I am hoping for the best!!

However ... IF I were to do this, and add in a higher EVSE ... would that be a problem for the Lincoln? Or would I have to maintain two units at that point in time?

Cheers!!

Ken

 

[TaxmanHog]

However ... IF I were to do this, and add in a higher EVSE ... would that be a problem for the Lincoln? Or would I have to maintain two units at that point in time?

The input port on a Lincoln is a simple J1772 without the CCS portion DO NOT buy an FCSP which would not be compatible.

A Ford CCS would work.

 

[Firn]

OP, I know you have heard it already, but its worth mentioning again.

You just had a "burn your whole house down" situation happen and you were saved from that more by accident than anything else.

I am not embellishing.

Please, just give Google 30 minutes of your time and read a few articles on how to safely use an electric vehicle charger, etc. You have it sorted now, but I strongly recommend introductions to the concepts necessary to be safe here.

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