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FCSP Lights Issues

Old Aviator

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So one of my FCSPs started going haywire last week.

Yellow light on right of led string which indicated "Station fault trouble shooting required"

I did resets, tripped breaker and left off for 30 mins. NADA

Called Ford and did every troubleshooting requested and then Rep said was told nothing more could be done before my installer came out an verified install. I said that was absurd since it had been working fine for 4 months. She then made comments about dip switches could have gotten reset. I state the FCSP install manual does not require any dip switch changes to which I was told its all in the instructions and I again said I have the manual in front of me and nowhere does it mention dip switches. At which point I was told nothing else could be done until installer checked it out and the dip switch setting were verified. I said I needed to see those instructions and she agreed to send email them ASAP. During conversion it was agreed at least a dozen times i had an amber/yellow light and it was a FCSP and she had the SN of the device.

I recived the promised instruction and it was for correct of a WHITE light indicator and not amber/yellow. In addition, the dip switch settings we to aling the amp output with the breaker size i.e. for 60 amp breaker set dip switches to this position for 48 amp output. So after being on the phone for 1 hour and being told I was 100% wrong I was sent the Instructions for a 60 amp Mach-E Charger!!!!!!!

I have not messed with the FCSP since then (I was out of town for 6 days (but this morning the light was no longer amber/yellow it was now first light on the left "RED". And this afternoon all lights are now white/light blue which means "the station is not powered by grid or battery back up" which is absurd since if it did not have power why would the damn lights be on at all.

And my installer confirmed all wires were/are torqued and the voltage and all connections is correct and active.

Not happy!!
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OP
OP

Old Aviator

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Answer for the Ford Charge Station Pro is "none".

The instruction I was sent was for setting charge output on a Mach-E charger when there is a "white" fault light. This Mach-E instruction was sent to me after an hour long conversation about about an "amber/yellow" fault light on my FCSP.

Before she would even speak with me I had to provide the SN which she confirmed was in their system. And Imultiple times I stated I had a Lightning and a FCSP so there would be no confusion.

The be very clear, for the FCSP you set the max amps based on breaker size using a small "current setting dial" near the top of the circuit board using a small screwdriver. There are no dip switches anywhere on the FCSP that require any adjustment/change by the installer.

There are some dip swiches on the FCSP circuit board but nothing in the "install manual" or anywhere else i can find explain what they are for or how to set them. It would be stupid to even touch them and the FCSP worked perfectly for 4 months without them being touched.
 

TaxmanHog

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Oyyyyyyy
 

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Technically, the Ford Connected Charge Station is not a “Mach-E Charger”. It is sold as an aftermarket accessory and was never supplied with any vehicle. Mine charges my Lightning just fine.

They need to replace your FCSP. It shouldn’t be this difficult.
 
OP
OP

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I didn’t have time today to call and endure another hour. Tomorrow I will be calling for a replacement.
 

Danface

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Ford is hoovering up all the info from everyting so they have the logs from your charging station which should provide a better starting point to find the problem. The real issue is most likely that data isn't available "for security reasons" (or perhaps there's no value to them if they shared it freely)
 

Heliian

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It's a rotary switch but they called it a dip switch.

Have your electrician come back out and reseat all the cables.

The amber light on the right while charging means that it's charging at a reduced rate. Mine did this after a year, I tightened the terminals to spec and it still did it. I then checked the breaker side and it still did it, I then reseated the wires and exercised the rotary switch and returned it to setting 5, 48a, where it had been before. Problem solved.

The light codes are in the fcsp install manual.
 

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The Weatherman

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What @Hellian said. Mine did the same last summer when it was pretty hot 90’s in KY.

I went through the same steps as he did but had no luck. I reset the system several times by switching the breaker off and as using the internal reset key. The issue with mine was that the system was showing the full blue bar, but the FordPass was always showed it was changing at 9.KW even though the dial was set to 80Amps.

After several attempts to change the output dial and resets I finally landed on 6 (64Amp) with FordPass showing 13.KW. (Felt like I was back in Vegas).

I subsequently added a multimeter to keep an eye on what the unit is outputting.

Ford F-150 Lightning FCSP Lights Issues 1710415312650-7x
 
OP
OP

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It's a rotary switch but they called it a dip switch.

Have your electrician come back out and reseat all the cables.

The amber light on the right while charging means that it's charging at a reduced rate. Mine did this after a year, I tightened the terminals to spec and it still did it. I then checked the breaker side and it still did it, I then reseated the wires and exercised the rotary switch and returned it to setting 5, 48a, where it had been before. Problem solved.

The light codes are in the fcsp install manual.
1. My electrician checked all connection and tightened them again. He verified all voltages (both legs and combined)

2. The amber light it does not charge at all and shows charge error in both EVs I have.

3. Rotary switch has always been set to 80 amps just as it came from the factory. But for grins I just tripped breaker and turned it down. No change still yellow light and I also tried to the factory reset to see if that changed anything and it would not reset no matter how long I pressed the switch.

4 In addition that is a "dip switch" it is not a "rotary switch" (I was not sure of the nomenclature so thanks for clarifying). If you examine an FCSP you will see "dip switches" along the upper right side of the circuit board. There are 2 small dip switch boxes with 2 dip switches in each box which are labeled "Term SW" (no idea what that means). There are no instructions for setting these dip switches. The Instructions sent to me was for using "dip switches" to adjust amps and included pictures for those dip switches with a table showing where they should be for ech level of input/output.

Problem not solved! I'm back on the phone now.
 

Fast911

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Keep calling ford customer service. They will issue you a replacement in a few weeks. Your fcsp is defective, just like mine. See threads below.




I recently have been having charging problems with the ford csp. My charger is solid blue and when I plug it into the vehicle, I get the solid amber light on the right of the charger. I tried numerous resets and it will not charge. I looked in my ford pass app and I can see the charging is at a “pause” and I am unable to make any changes or control the csp. I contacted ford customer support and initiated a case on the csp. So after a week or so, my case got escalated and now I’m waiting for ford to send a new replacement csp so I can send the defective unit back. It takes a couple of weeks, but ford is good at honoring a replacement unit for the defective unit.

IMG_8826.jpeg
Got my replacement FCSP and installed it yesterday. Charged twice since install and all is well. FCSP works fine and just waiting for updates to it. Packed up the defective unit and just shipped it back via fedex. Thanks FORD!
So one of my FCSPs started going haywire last week.

Yellow light on right of led string which indicated "Station fault trouble shooting required"

I did resets, tripped breaker and left off for 30 mins. NADA

Called Ford and did every troubleshooting requested and then Rep said was told nothing more could be done before my installer came out an verified install. I said that was absurd since it had been working fine for 4 months. She then made comments about dip switches could have gotten reset. I state the FCSP install manual does not require any dip switch changes to which I was told its all in the instructions and I again said I have the manual in front of me and nowhere does it mention dip switches. At which point I was told nothing else could be done until installer checked it out and the dip switch setting were verified. I said I needed to see those instructions and she agreed to send email them ASAP. During conversion it was agreed at least a dozen times i had an amber/yellow light and it was a FCSP and she had the SN of the device.

I recived the promised instruction and it was for correct of a WHITE light indicator and not amber/yellow. In addition, the dip switch settings we to aling the amp output with the breaker size i.e. for 60 amp breaker set dip switches to this position for 48 amp output. So after being on the phone for 1 hour and being told I was 100% wrong I was sent the Instructions for a 60 amp Mach-E Charger!!!!!!!

I have not messed with the FCSP since then (I was out of town for 6 days (but this morning the light was no longer amber/yellow it was now first light on the left "RED". And this afternoon all lights are now white/light blue which means "the station is not powered by grid or battery back up" which is absurd since if it did not have power why would the damn lights be on at all.

And my installer confirmed all wires were/are torqued and the voltage and all connections is correct and active.

Not happy!!
 
OP
OP

Old Aviator

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Larry
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WPB, FL
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22 Lightning Platinum 06 Magnum SRT8 23 Ocean One
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Consultant
Third call was the charm. Another 45 mins trying to access the defective charger in my house garage without success. So she agreed it need to be elevated for resolution/replacement.

We also discussed my inability to access the FCSP in my detached garage that works fine, I just can't see it in the app. She said sometimes a random power outage will scramble the wifi and I should try to perform and compete new setup.

After that call I spent another hour getting the FCSP in my detached garage back on-line. Removed the face-plate and unscrewed the 10 cover screws so I could view the circuit board.

Suggestions I can make to assure a successful connection is:
1. delete the device from Ford Pass and the Charger APP
2 delete all the wifi address settings for the FCSP on your phone
3. turn Bluetooth off
4. don't use 5G connection to your home network
5. start the process from the Ford Pass app and not the Charge station app
6. hold the reset button on the top left for at least 30 seconds
7. cycle the breaker on and off, and
8. perform a small animal sacrafice on top of the FCSP faceplate.

Viola!!! Repeat this process at least 4 times and something will eventually happen.

I am so looking forward to repeating the above process on my replacement FCSP. All that blood makes me a little queasy. :sick:
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