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Traded my 2023 for a 2025

RLXXI

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If you bought the Lariat, as stated in post #7 ...... it still has the same 131 kWh HVB as your 2023
From what I've seen over the past 10 months owning a 25, nothing is consistent, hell even my window sticker wasn't consistent with vehicle equipment saying it had something it didn't, (tailgate assist), was not equipped and no I'm not talking about the power tailgate, just the assist which is supposed to help stop the gate from slamming down when opened if let go.

Sticker says It came with it, opening the tailgate says that's a lie so I pulled the tail light myself to see if it was maybe disconnected from the factory, nope, was never installed.

I called the dealer exploring my own caveat emptor and somehow they convinced me it was a sticker missprint. I let it go knowing how cheap and easy it is to install the oem assist and put it on myself, used some of the points from getting the truck to buy it and spent 15 mins of my time installing it.

How many other miss prints or miss builds for 25 are there running around that people don't have a clue about?
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Ragman

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Those who know will be combing used market for either delete free 22s in lariat or platinum or 23s in xlt er trims.

Owning two 24+s not a fan, the heat pumps are destined to be wear items (things almost run non stop in parking lot), smaller battery, and give me back the dual chargers...
 

chriserx

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So I'm gonna chime in with what tires did your old truck have vs the new truck, and what PSI? Could be as simple as that.
 
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Charles Juedemann

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So I'm gonna chime in with what tires did your old truck have vs the new truck, and what PSI? Could be as simple as that.
There is a little misunderstanding here. It is not the range. Range has many factors that change. It is the total charge. I always had 320 mils or better on my 23. The 25 will only charge to 265-285. The range can be calculated by looking at the kwh used per mile. I know my truck. I drive the same route 175 miles one way every week. The 25 does NOT have the same range as the 23. In the past I always had 138miles left on the truck, the 25 is usually 85-95 and THAT is a big difference. Too big. AND, if I take it to the dealer and they do not find an error code, they bill me $200. I am going on vacation so will not be around for a month.. Bye for no.
 

PJnc284

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You're putting way too much stock in the GOM. Get an obdii dongle and something like car scanner to see how many kWh it's showing and any voltage variation. Also if you look up under the truck behind the driver's front tire, you should see a sticker on the battery and it should show 143.1kWh. The only true way to compare the trucks would be to run both to 0 and see see how much energy was pulled and then charge back to 100 to see how much it takes (of course some will be charging losses).
 

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Charles Juedemann

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You're putting way too much stock in the GOM. Get an obdii dongle and something like car scanner to see how many kWh it's showing and any voltage variation. Also if you look up under the truck behind the driver's front tire, you should see a sticker on the battery and it should show 143.1kWh. The only true way to compare the trucks would be to run both to 0 and see see how much energy was pulled and then charge back to 100 to see how much it takes (of course some will be charging losses).
I know my truck and I know how far I can go. I do not change my driving habits. The 25 does not do as well as the 23. Stickers, kwh, and claims mean nothing. It is the actual driving that counts.
 

TaxmanHog

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There is a little misunderstanding here. It is not the range. Range has many factors that change. It is the total charge. I always had 320 mils or better on my 23.
WHEN you you charged to 100% ........ this is a misleading value that many ~experienced~ EV drivers called out early in the introduction of the Lightning, FoMoCo dicked around with the algorithms in OTA's on 22 & 23 trucks, to no ones statisfaction.

In all honesty, they moderated the optimistic value {320 miles at 100%} to something lower.

At the moment I've reset my driving history and am doing my quarterly balancing charge to 100%, the 131 kWh HVB is taking a long time to get to 100% I'll let it run all night if needed, but what I'm seeing so far is that the overly optimistic value is back since I've removed the deplorable winter performance data.

Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775437043359-db


When I parked to start charging, I drove 89 miles of around town speeds, off the plug cabin conditioning, remote starts before every drive for 7 days with no midweek charging, consumed 42% SOC or ~ 55.02 kWh, that results in real performance of 1.62 miles per kWh far less than 2.443 miles per kWh {320 miles}. Conclusions base on my driving style is a realistic range of 212 miles from SOC 100% to SOC 0%

Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775435841400-


Early in the process check:

Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775435874754-72


Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775435910833-ct
Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775435923554-7d


Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775435943579-8y
Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775435962856-tl


Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775436127596-12
Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775436145466-m7


By the time this is done balancing, I'll have the ideal 320 miles of potential range in ideal climate conditions, which I won't get with cold temps around 50's {f} this week.

EDIT for final values, predicting 319 miles now, but 15 minutes prior it showed 321, temps dropped.

Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775438230817-eq
Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775438253966-n6

Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775438275061-xs
Ford F-150 Lightning Traded my 2023 for a 2025 1775438294964-z9
 
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Firn

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I know my truck and I know how far I can go. I do not change my driving habits. The 25 does not do as well as the 23. Stickers, kwh, and claims mean nothing. It is the actual driving that counts.
No, you have it 100% backwards. Battery size, kwh, those ARE the actual numbers. That thing on the dash is a computer guess that has been PROVEN to be unreliable. It's a made up number, NOT actual.

At the end of the day you have a battery that is 131kwh. If you get 2.0mi/kwh then THAT determines how FAR you can drive, ABSOLUTELY nothing else.

You are arguing that 10lbs of feathers is lighter than 10lbs of lead because feathers are lighter than lead. The only ACTUAL numbers here are battery size and mi/kwh.

If you want to go by that number than let me drive your truck for a while, even though i still have the same size battery and get the same efficiency, it now says 350 miles of range when fully charged... I guess I got 30 miles of additional wireless range...
 

RickLightning

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Well said.
 

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RocketGhost

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I know my truck and I know how far I can go. I do not change my driving habits. The 25 does not do as well as the 23. Stickers, kwh, and claims mean nothing. It is the actual driving that counts.
If you have not run it until it stops, you don't know how far it can go. You're basing your observations on an unreliable range estimate.

Give us a comparison between your trucks in kwh, battery %, or mi/kwh. The displayed miles remaining is useless for comparison.
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