12V battery replacement poll

[bthanos]

Old post, I have the new one with Bluetooth and self heating.

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[RLXXI]

But the down side is cold. LFP can't be charged below freezing and has limited discharge below freezing.

Yeah, they now make them with built in heaters to eliminate that short coming. The one I use can safely discharge @ -4° with no heater.

Definitely need to be sure and use a heated lfp in Northern climates, I'm in the tropics which rarely sees below freezing temps.

 

[Lytning]

For every "Ohmmu is amazing" post there should be a mandatory warning post with this:


or - at a bare minimum a disclaimer mentioning that they're not suitable for vehicles being used in cooler climates (that see below freezing temperatures).


Ohmmu might be great for some, but it is definitely not a solution for everyone.

I expect mine is built like the one in the video at this link ...

 

[chl]

Wow! All this sounds so complicated. With a gas engine you replaced the battery when you needed a jump start. Apparently that strategy doesn’t work so well for an electric car

Since around 2011 Ford started putting a 12V battery management system in their F-150s and I assume other vehicles, because so much is now 12V battery powered and it is even more important that it used to be, according to reliable information from the Internet (is that an oxymoron? yes sometimes).

And it seems that even the ICE F-150s will have their batteries go low if not driven maybe 45 min to 1 hour every day.

The problem is the load on the 12V system doesn't leave 'room' for significant battery charging if you only drive short trips all the time whether it is recharged by an alternator in an ICE truck or the DC-DC converter in our Lightnings. Of course when off there are also small parasitic loads that add up over time.

Then funny things start to happen.

First you may get a warning message on the screen that loads are being shed to maintain the battery when you first turn off the truck. You may notice the lights don't stay on very long when you first unlock the truck as well. Before I put my Lightning 12V battery on a trickle charger I would see that happen. In ICE F-150 trucks the message may say "System off to save battery" and then the truck will go into a battery saving mode.

Later the truck may not boot up (or start if ICE) without a jump.

In Lightnings another symptom is failed OTAs - some OTAs require at least an 80-85% or so 12V battery SOC so they can fully install. I saw that happen as well.

I just learned recently that some people are reporting high 12V battery charging currents - if true, that is a sign of a deeply discharged battery (50% or lower), and it is not a good thing.

That would also indicate that the battery management system for the Lightning (maybe ICE F-150s also) does not control the charge current so that it stays at or below an optimum level when the battery is deeply discharged. High currents are not good for AGM batteries and will shorten their lifespan. Neither is a deep discharge level.

So, if you are like me, and don't drive 45 min to 1 hour every day, putting the 12V battery on a trickle charger with an AGM mode seems like the best way avoid those issues and make the 12V AGM battery last.

Keeping the battery topped off is always a good idea with any lead-acid battery anyway.

There are other ways to cause the DC-DC converter to charge the 12V battery without a trickle charger and get your OTAs to install (see link):

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-get-failed-otas-to-install.29749/

So to simplify it all: Keep the battery topped off - if you don't drive at least 45 minutes every day, get a trickle charger with an AGM mode and connect it when the truck is not being used.

 

[bthanos]

All these problems solved with Ohmmu Lion Battery.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Hello, Brian, not AI, @Ford Motor Company,

Can you find out and inform us what the maximum charge rate is to the 12 volt battery in our Lightnings?

Thank you,

Steve

I'll ask!

 

[RLXXI]

All these problems solved with Ohmmu Lion Battery.

Those batteries are not lion, they are lfp and they have a sodium model as well.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

@chl The BMS (sensor) monitors the current through it and reports that along with temperature and battery age to the BCM via the LIN bus. The BCM then provides the PCM with a SOC and the PCM decides a voltage setpoint for the DC-DC converter (e.g., I've seen 13.7V and 14.4V) which affects how fast or slow the battery will charge (accept current). The SOBDMC also gets involved.

There is not a specific charging current. If Brian says a single number, he's wrong. The current varies and dependent on the voltage the DC-DC has been instructed to provide and other 12V loads. It doesn't provide a constant current. But the BMS tells the system the current flowing in and out of it - and by the PCM adjusting voltage then current can be somewhat regulated in and out of the battery. I see you're also an EE - think KVL, KCL, Ohm's law.

I have taken a BMS apart - it has a microprocessor so its doing some calculations. There is definitely no switch, valve, contactor, etc. It has a current sensor (Hall Effect?) built into the plastic between the input and output lugs.

You might want to spend $29 on a 3-day subscription to PTS. The Service manual has wiring diagrams, system operation description, etc. Much better source than any AI.

PICS: LIN bus and battery positive enter from two pins on upper right. My best guess is current sensor and battery negative are present on the three large pins on the left.

Is there where I say "there isn't a single number"?

 

[The Weatherman]

Well the time has come. My 22MY battery hadn’t failed totally and never left me strained, but it was showing signs of weakening. The doors were slow to unlock and the approach lights were not coming on. So before it left me having to jump start it on the road, I went ahead and purchased an H3 OHMMU Lthium replacement.

The difference was quite noticeable. The lights come on as they should and were subsequently brighter. The doors recognized my touch instantly. And the entertainment system booted a little more quickly also.

These batteries are much better suited to operate in our electric trucks than the lead acid they come with. They are better suited for larger range of charging and discharging. Plus the OHMMU has a BMS of its own that mimics a lead acid battery when the truck queries it which also protects the battery from excessive discharging or over charging.

In addition there is an app that allows you to query its state of health and control its charging and discharging.

They are not cheap, but have a 4 year full replacement warranty and are a lot easier to handle. (Thanks to @Lytning for the ‘heads up’ on that point.)

My early experience saids it will be worth every extra penny paid.

This is my opinion and not that of management or the staff.

 

[21st Century Truck]

Well the time has come. My 22MY battery hadn’t failed totally and never left me strained, but it was showing signs of weakening. The doors were slow to unlock and the approach lights were not coming on. So before it left me having to jump start it on the road, I went ahead and purchased an H3 OHMMU Lthium replacement.

The difference was quite noticeable. The lights come on as they should and were subsequently brighter. The doors recognized my touch instantly. And the entertainment system booted a little more quickly also.

These batteries are much better suited to operate in our electric trucks than the lead acid they come with. They are better suited for larger range of charging and discharging. Plus the OHMMU has a BMS of its own that mimics a lead acid battery when the truck queries it which also protects the battery from excessive discharging or over charging.

In addition there is an app that allows you to query its state of health and control its charging and discharging.

They are not cheap, but have a 4 year full replacement warranty and are a lot easier to handle. (Thanks to @Lytning for the ‘heads up’ on that point.)

My early experience saids it will be worth every extra penny paid.

This is my opinion and not that of management or the staff.

Haha I'm installing my Ohmmu battery today before our slightly crazy Canada / Newfoundland camping trip soon. Same thought process...

 

[The Weatherman]

Haha I'm installing my Ohmmu battery today before our slightly crazy Canada / Newfoundland camping trip soon. Same thought process...

Be sure to perform the BMS reset on the Lightning after install. You may already know that, but mentioned it just in case.

 

[electricpig]

I joined the club yesterday. Got a warning when I got in yesterday that was shutting do to save battery power. Took it to the service department two hours later for warranty replacement. Truck bought new 3 weeks short of two years ago. Thing is, it had lived a relatively easy life compared to many.

 

[bthanos]

Had similar experience with two year old lightning - system off to save battery, failed ota software updates, etc. Installed Ohmmu battery, BMS reset, no more troubles. And yes I noticed a significant improvement to Sound system Audio Quality.

 

[21st Century Truck]

When I replaced my OEM 12V battery today, at 79,561 miles and 17 months of ownership, I noticed the two sides with the grid pattern on them (left and right side when looking at this battery in its truck location behind the frunk) were both noticeably bulged out. That didn't seem right, and the service tech where I took it at my Ford dealership, agreed. See the 2 pix.

FYI my late 2023 truck has sat at this dealership for 7 or 8+ months until I bought it in July 2024. Not sure if this matters but wanted to mention it.

We're heading up to Canada for several weeks next week so I decided to pop for the Ohmmu 12V battery. The OEM battery had not given any functional signs of failure.

Anyone else here who found their OEM 12V battery with bulging sides?

 

[TaxmanHog]

Anyone else here who found their OEM 12V battery with bulging sides?

My old LVB showed similar deformation.

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