What is your SOH, Mileage, and how do you use your Battery?

[WaterboyNorCal]

Could be BMS drifting is an issue. Basically without going down to near zero, or 100% the BMS can lose track of actual. The SOH you are seeing is what the BMS thinks, and that may not be entirely accurate. Many people charge to 100% occasionally for this reason. I have read that the remedy is to run it to near zero, then in one continuous charge to 100% (meaning it shuts off on its own). This also has the effect of leveling all cells, meaning evenly charged which can throw off SOH calculations as well. Lastly, it's not just battery usage, it's also age of the battery pack, and environment, especially very high temps. But of course you may have a weak cell or two.

Try deep discharge to absolute full charge. Just keep it either end for as little time as possible.

Exactly this. Ya’ll need to take Rick’s advice and relax. The SOH that is showing on an OBD2 reader or Forscan is just an estimate and can be quite inaccurate due to BMS calibration issues. Just drive the truck. Only if something is really wrong (like the guy who is looking at 77% SOH at less than 40k miles) would I start to be concerned.

My 2023 SR is indicating 97% currently at 40,000 miles driven/18 months since delivery, but I suspect the actual degradation is lower than 3%. When I first looked at the OBD2 scanner after 28k miles and 11 months of ownership, it showed 97.5%. Over the past 7 months, the SOH has varied between 96-98%, and yes, sometimes it goes up, due to the aforementioned calibration issues, as well as pack temperature and SOC when obtaining the readings. You really need to do a full discharge to below 10%, let the truck sit for at least 5 hours, and then Level 2 charge until it stops accepting juice (this will be AFTER it indicates 100% SOC). Even then, if ambient temperatures are variable, you could get different results.

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[jimfigler]

My real range 240-252-268 miles. 80% highway 75 speed. Ful load staff 700 pounds

Awesome but what's that have to do with the SOH value from an app being unreliable?

 

[ctuan13]

someone on Facebook reported the app gave 100% SOH when he had a bad module, so I take zero faith in that number.

Yeah SOH is not enough on its own, you need to see module voltage variation and module SOC variation. Those are the most important metrics.

 

[VirtualTed]

Regarding my sudden drop from 100% SOH to 95.5% in the last couple months, I decided to drain the battery to ~5% and then charge to 100% to help reset the BMS stats as suggested earlier in this thread. I'll try to be as succinct as possible in what happened next.

06/16 4:00pm - Drained battery to 2.5% by driving around. I let the truck sit for 5 hours and then started charging at 32A with charge limit to 100%. Recorded the following stats at that time...

HVB SOC - 6.09%
HVB SOC Display -2.5%
HVB SOH - 95.5%
HVB AGE - 34.89 Months
HVB SOC module variation - 11.09%
HVB Min Module voltage - 3.3V
HVB Avg Module voltage - 3.56V
HVB Voltage Module variation - .27V

06/17 8:00am - Woke up. Currently at 74% and still charging. Says it should be done at 1:30pm.

06/17 9:00am - Phone says charge completed at 100%. I go out to truck, turn it on and it shows 100% on initial screen, but when I get to the standard dash, it drops down to 77% w/ 255 miles range. Battery says it's at 100F and truck is sitting quietly with ambient temp at 87F. (I expect to hear cooling fans or something). I unplug/plug in charger and tell it to start charging. Phone says it is charging, but no light is on at plug and the "charging noise" is not present. I turn on the truck and immediately hear the familiar hum form under the hood area, but no cooling fans or anything else. I turn off the truck and humming stops, but still no charging and no light at charge port.

At this point, I'm trying to figure out why it isn't charging, and why the battery is so hot (and not cooling it down). I decide to unplug the 12V battery for 10 min. to reboot it all. Once that is completed, I turn on the truck like I'm going to drive it and set it to sport mode to enable "extra cooling". All the cooling systems come on and after 20 minutes or so of just letting it sit there with every fan blasting away, it brings the battery down to 86F at which point the truck goes silent. (During this time, I also notice that the tire pressure is 146PSI on all 4 tires in APP. On display, it just shows dashes for each tire.)

So, with the battery cooled down I plug the truck back in to the charger, and tell it I want to go to 100%. After 20 minutes, display still shows 76% SOC and "Charging to 100%" on dash, but there is no charging happening and the 5 little charging lights are dark. Ford charger seems fine, with blue light showing.

So I guess I should probably take it in, but I would like to hear any thoughts you guys have before I do so. I should also mention again that I got a couple recall updates done before all of this started happening which were 24P24 (Front Hatch Control Module), and 24B56 (Inoperative Front Parking Sensors - Software Update Image Processing Module A).

Thanks!

-T

 

[TaxmanHog]

At this point, I'm trying to figure out why it isn't charging, and why the battery is so hot (and not cooling it down). I decide to unplug the 12V battery for 10 min. to reboot it all. Once that is completed, I turn on the truck like I'm going to drive it and set it to sport mode to enable "extra cooling". All the cooling systems come on and after 20 minutes or so of just letting it sit there with every fan blasting away, it brings the battery down to 86F at which point the truck goes silent. (During this time, I also notice that the tire pressure is 146PSI on all 4 tires in APP. On display, it just shows dashes for each tire.)

Needs to be driven a few hundred feet to get the pressure sensors reporting correct values

 

[electricpig]

Doesn't sound good to me

I'm in no way a.battery expert, but
your 11% variation in SOC module variation, followed by not fully charging says you me that you have a failing module. Other have reported the 100% charge immediately reducing to the approx 75% to find out they had a bad module in the battery pack.

Your service department you use should be able to determine if this is the case quickly.

 

[VirtualTed]

Doesn't sound good to me

I'm in no way a.battery expert, but
your 11% variation in SOC module variation, followed by not fully charging says you me that you have a failing module. Other have reported the 100% charge immediately reducing to the approx 75% to find out they had a bad module in the battery pack.

Your service department you use should be able to determine if this is the case quickly.

Sounds good. I appreciate all the advice on this forum. Going to make an appointment now and will let everyone know how it turns out.

 

[Maxx]

let the truck sit for at least 5 hours,

I have heard this a lot. How much of it is for battery to cool down and how much of it is for cell balancing? Is it really necessary for this process? Lets say you are doing this in winter and battery temperature is not an issue. Wouldn't cells balance when they reach 100% SOC anyway? Why would you keep the battery at that low SOC for five additional hours if it does not help the BMS in calibrating? I appreciate it if you can spell out why that 5 hour rest is helpful here and why the benefit of it outweighs the damage to the battery for sitting at low SOC.

 

[GoodSam]

shows 100% on initial screen, but when I get to the standard dash, it drops down to 77%

Another thread with evidently a Ford tech message SSM 53208 about dropping power %, noting that there might be a bad cell:
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...pack-soc-unable-to-reach-target-charge.23075/
Your battery module variation is huge. What is your Build Date (month/year on driver's door sticker) and mileage for your 2022 Lariat ER?

See if you are affected by this Safety Recall 25S18, where you might qualify for a full pack replacement! Check your Vin at ford.com.
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/hv-battery-electrode-misalignment.25331/
But still I think if you have a bad cell in one of the 9 modules, you will be covered for that replacement since you are less than 8 years and 100K miles.

 

[VirtualTed]

Another thread with evidently a Ford tech message SSM 53208 about dropping power %, noting that there might be a bad cell:
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...pack-soc-unable-to-reach-target-charge.23075/
Your battery module variation is huge. What is your Build Date (month/year on driver's door sticker) and mileage for your 2022 Lariat ER?

Build date is July 22 and I've got barely 30k miles now. I did check for the recall but my truck isn't included, so I'm guessing just a bad module. However, I might bring up this issue anyway to see if they can give me a double-check on the electrode misalignment thing. I would not be sad to get a completely new battery.

 

[WaterboyNorCal]

I have heard this a lot. How much of it is for battery to cool down and how much of it is for cell balancing? Is it really necessary for this process? Lets say you are doing this in winter and battery temperature is not an issue. Wouldn't cells balance when they reach 100% SOC anyway? Why would you keep the battery at that low SOC for five additional hours if it does not help the BMS in calibrating? I appreciate it if you can spell out why that 5 hour rest is helpful here and why the benefit of it outweighs the damage to the battery for sitting at low SOC.

I’ve heard it a few times, but there is a guy with the username “Mach-Lee” on the MachE forum, who has pretty extensive experience with EV batteries. He posted a “HV Calibration Procedure” blurb back in Nov 2022 that’s applicable to all EVs, and in that post, he states: “The rest periods at low and high SOC are very important to wait for so the BMS has time to read all the cell voltages accurately.”

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/hv-battery-calibration-procedure.23815/

 

[Grumpy2]

He posted a “HV Calibration Procedure” blurb back in Nov 2022

"It's important to understand that performing a BMS calibration does not physically restore lost battery capacity (which is gone forever), it merely updates the computer estimate of capacity only so that it is more accurate. The battery has whatever intrinsic capacity is currently has regardless of what anyone says, does, or thinks (including the GOM), so you could argue it's best to not think about BMS drift and just go about life unless you are concerned with accuracy."

 

[WaterboyNorCal]

"It's important to understand that performing a BMS calibration does not physically restore lost battery capacity (which is gone forever), it merely updates the computer estimate of capacity only so that it is more accurate. The battery has whatever intrinsic capacity is currently has regardless of what anyone says, does, or thinks (including the GOM), so you could argue it's best to not think about BMS drift and just go about life unless you are concerned with accuracy."

Yes, of course. It’s relevant to this discussion however because people are putting a lot of stock in the ‘State of Health’ data point that is produced by the BMS. That estimate can be quite misleading due to drift/calibration issues.
Additionally, if you ever road trip and need to use the bottom 10% of the battery pack, I would suggest that BMS accuracy is rather important. Nobody wants to be at 6% indicated SOC and a few miles away from the nearest DCFC and find out that BMS drift is a real thing.

 

[Maxx]

Yes, of course. It’s relevant to this discussion however because people are putting a lot of stock in the ‘State of Health’ data point that is produced by the BMS. That estimate can be quite misleading due to drift/calibration issues.
Additionally, if you ever road trip and need to use the bottom 10% of the battery pack, I would suggest that BMS accuracy is rather important. Nobody wants to be at 6% indicated SOC and a few miles away from the nearest DCFC and find out that BMS drift is a real thing.

when year nine arrives, at the edge of 70% there could be a lot of warranty claims due to this reading.

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